Ouadane: a ruined caravan city and the Eye of the Sahara

Why Ouadane is worth the journey

Ouadane was once one of the great trading cities of the western Sahara. Caravans brought salt from the north and gold from the south, and Portuguese traders even set up a short-lived post here in the fifteenth century. As trade routes shifted, the city declined, and much of the old town was abandoned. Its ruins, still partly lived in, are one of the four Ancient Ksour listed by UNESCO, alongside Chinguetti, Tichitt and Oualata.

The old town

The old city climbs up the hillside in terraces of dry stone walls, narrow lanes and roofless houses, with the mosque near the heart of the quarter. Walking up through the ruins as the light softens is the highlight of any visit. A local guide can explain how the city was organised, which quarters belonged to which families, and how the walls defended the town. Some families still live in the lower town, so be respectful with your camera.

The palm grove

Below the old city, a palm grove and small gardens fed by wells make a cool, shady contrast to the stone and sand. It is a peaceful place to walk in the afternoon and see how oasis farming still works.

The Richat Structure

About an hour or more from Ouadane lies the Guelb er Richat, a vast set of concentric rings some forty kilometres across, so striking that astronauts use it as a landmark. Geologists believe it is an eroded dome of rock rather than an impact crater. From the ground, it is hard to see the full pattern, but driving across the rings with a guide who explains the geology is a memorable day, and basic camps let you stay overnight within the structure.

Manuscripts and crafts

Like Chinguetti, Ouadane has family libraries holding old manuscripts, though they are smaller. Children and craft sellers often offer stone arrowheads and tools found in the desert. Buy silver and leather work if you like, but think twice about prehistoric artefacts, which may be protected heritage.

Getting there

Ouadane is reached by desert track from Chinguetti, either along the plateau or across the dunes of the Erg Ouarane, or by a longer route via Atar. A four wheel drive, an experienced driver and a licensed guide are essential. Distances are long, fuel and water must be planned, and the area is remote. Check your government's current travel advice for this part of the Adrar before planning, as some guidance has covered areas further east and north.

A suggested day in Ouadane

Arrive in the afternoon, settle into your guesthouse and walk up through the old town before sunset, when the stone glows gold and the plateau stretches away to the horizon. Next morning, visit a family library and the palm grove while it is still cool, then set out with your guide for the Richat Structure, returning by evening or camping overnight inside the rings. Carry plenty of water, a hat and a scarf, and remember that shops are few, so buy supplies in Atar before you leave.

Where to stay

Ouadane has a few simple guesthouses and camps, with basic rooms and home-cooked meals. Bring cash, warm clothes and supplies for the journey. Plan the route with Chinguetti and Atar and the Adrar, and shape your days with the free trip planner.