Banc d'Arguin National Park: birds, dunes and the Imraguen

Why the Banc d'Arguin is special

The park protects around twelve thousand square kilometres of land and sea, where the Sahara runs straight into the Atlantic. Cold, nutrient rich currents and wide shallow waters feed enormous numbers of fish, and the fish feed the birds. Every winter, more than two million shorebirds arrive from Europe, Siberia and the Arctic, joining breeding colonies of flamingos, pelicans, spoonbills, herons and terns. It is a place of huge skies, silence and light.

The bird islands

The richest bird colonies are on islands such as Tidra and the smaller islets near Iwik. To protect them, the park allows access only by lanche, the traditional sailing boats of the Imraguen. Motorboats are not used for fishing here, which is one of the reasons the park remains so rich. Boat trips leave from Iwik when wind and tides allow, and take you close to pelicans, cormorants and flamingos without disturbing them.

The Imraguen

The Imraguen are a small community of fishing families living in villages along the coast. They are famous for a remarkable partnership with wild dolphins, which drive shoals of mullet towards the shore where the fishermen wait with nets. They also make dried mullet and poutargue, cured mullet roe, a delicacy prized across the Mediterranean. Visiting a village with a guide, and buying something they make, is a respectful way to learn about their life.

Cap Tafarit, Arkeiss and the beaches

The park's coastline is wild and empty. Cap Tafarit has red cliffs and a small village, Arkeiss has dunes that roll straight into the sea, and Cap Timiris in the south has some of the most beautiful sand landscapes on the coast. Sunsets are spectacular, and nights bring brilliant stars.

When to go

October to April is the best time, when wintering birds are present and temperatures are comfortable. Breeding colonies are active from spring. Summer is hotter and windier, with fewer birds.

Travelling responsibly in the park

The Banc d'Arguin works because people have lived lightly here for generations. Keep a respectful distance from bird colonies, and never ask a boatman to sail closer than he judges wise. Take all rubbish back out with you, as there is no collection on the coast, and use water sparingly in the camps, where it is brought in by truck. Ask before photographing anyone in the Imraguen villages, and dress modestly. Buying dried fish, poutargue or crafts directly from families is one of the best ways to make sure your visit supports the people who protect this coast.

Where to stay

Accommodation is in simple campements, tented camps with basic beds, shared washing facilities and meals of fish and rice. Some are run with the park and local communities. Bring a torch, a warm layer for the night and patience: this is wild travel, not a resort.

Getting there

The park's entrances are off the paved highway between Nouakchott and Nouadhibou, but the tracks to the coast cross sand and need a four wheel drive and an experienced driver who knows the tides. Most visitors go with a licensed local guide or tour operator. There is a park entry fee and rules on where you can drive and camp; check the current arrangements with the park authorities before you go. Combine a visit with Nouakchott or Nouadhibou, and plan your days with the free trip planner.