Chinguetti: manuscripts, minarets and dunes

Why Chinguetti matters

For centuries Chinguetti was a meeting point for caravans crossing the Sahara and for pilgrims gathering on the way to Mecca. Scholars, poets and traders brought books from across the Islamic world, and the town became so renowned that Mauritanians were once known across the Arab world as the people of Chinguetti. Today the old town is one of the four Ancient Ksour of Ouadane, Chinguetti, Tichitt and Oualata listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

The old town

The old quarter sits across a dry riverbed from the newer town. Its houses are built of dry stone, with heavy wooden doors and flat roofs, and many are half buried by sand. Wander the lanes with a local guide, who can explain the history of each family and quarter, and point out the decorated doorways and old wells.

The Friday Mosque

The square stone minaret of the Friday Mosque, topped with ostrich eggs, is a national symbol that appears on banknotes and postcards. Non-Muslims are not normally allowed inside, but you can admire it from the lanes around it. Dress modestly and be quiet at prayer times.

The manuscript libraries

Chinguetti's great treasure is its family libraries. Families such as the keepers of the Al Habott and Ahmed Mahmoud libraries guard thousands of manuscripts on religion, law, astronomy, medicine and poetry, some many centuries old. Keepers show visitors a selection, often with mint tea and stories. Do not touch the pages unless invited, and a small contribution to the library's upkeep is customary.

The dunes

The Erg Ouarane, a great sea of dunes, begins on the edge of town. The classic Chinguetti evening is a walk or camel ride up a dune to watch the sunset, followed by a night in a desert camp. Short rides and overnight trips can be arranged in town; longer treks head across the Erg towards Ouadane.

Nearby

Abweir, a short trip from town, holds ruins said to be the original settlement of Chinguetti. The road from Atar via the Amogjar pass is spectacular in itself.

Festival des Villes Anciennes

Mauritania holds a festival of the ancient cities that rotates between the four ksour, with music, poetry, crafts and camel races. When it comes to Chinguetti, the town fills with visitors. Check dates locally, as the timing varies.

Life in Chinguetti today

Outside the main season, Chinguetti is a quiet town of a few thousand people, many of them families who have lived here for generations. Sand is a constant challenge, creeping into houses and lanes, and many residents work in tourism, date farming or trade. Spending a little longer than a quick stop, eating in the guesthouses, buying crafts and hiring local guides, makes a real difference to the town. Ask before photographing people, especially women, and accept the offer of tea whenever you can: it is the heart of hospitality here.

Where to stay and practical tips

Chinguetti has a number of guesthouses, with rooms, tents and shared meals, and camps in the dunes. Bring cash, as there are no reliable ATMs, a warm layer for cold desert nights and a scarf against blowing sand. Check your government's latest travel advice for the Adrar before going, and visit with a licensed guide. Continue to Ouadane, or return to Atar and the Adrar.