First time in Kenya? Here is everything you are wondering about

Is Kenya safe?

The honest answer: the US and UK advise visitors to take care in Kenya, not to stay away. Petty crime is common: phones snatched through open car windows, pickpockets in crowded places and the occasional scam. Violent crime, such as mugging, armed robbery and carjacking, happens too, particularly in the large cities. These everyday habits lower the risk:

• Keep your phone out of sight in traffic, with the car window up.
• Don't walk around cities after dark. Use a driver you know or a ride-hailing app instead.
• Leave passports, spare cash and jewellery in your hotel safe, and carry a copy of your passport.
• Use cash machines inside banks, malls or hotels, in daylight.
• Be wary of anyone who approaches you with a story, an offer or an unexpected "fee".

Read your own government's travel advice before you go, for example from the United States or the United Kingdom. It is written for every possible traveller. The areas it says to avoid are mostly border regions far from the places most visitors go, plus a few Nairobi neighbourhoods, such as Eastleigh and Kibera, where we would not suggest staying. On safari and at the coast, the practical rules are simple: listen to your guide, stay on paths after dark, and respect the wildlife.

The biggest difference to your peace of mind is not having to improvise. When someone you trust meets you at the airport, knows where you are staying and answers your messages, the nerves fade quickly. Our guide Is Kenya safe? goes through what each advisory says, area by area.

Entry: the eTA

Since January 2024, most visitors need an Electronic Travel Authorisation (eTA) instead of a visa. You apply online before you travel, and the approval is linked to your passport.

• Apply only on the official government site, etakenya.go.ke. Copycat sites charge extra and some are scams.
• Check the current fee, processing time and exemptions on the official site, because they can change. Apply well before your flight.
• Kenyan citizens travelling on Kenyan passports don't need one. Some nationalities are exempt; the official site lists them.
• Check that your passport has plenty of validity left and blank pages. Six months of validity is the widely given advice.
• Save your approval on your phone and print a copy.

Our eTA and entry checklist covers children, dual citizens, health papers and customs.

Money, cards and M-Pesa

Kenya's currency is the Kenyan shilling (KES). Cards are widely accepted in Nairobi at hotels, malls, supermarkets and most restaurants. Carry some cash too, for tips, markets, small shops and anywhere upcountry. Cash machines are common in towns.

M-Pesa, Kenya's mobile money, is used for almost everything, from taxis to lunch. To use it you need a Safaricom line registered in your name, which visitors can do with their passport at a Safaricom shop. Travel eSIMs give you data but not M-Pesa. If you are bringing US dollars to exchange, bring clean, recent notes, because banks in Kenya have been known to refuse older ones. Tell your bank you are travelling. The sister site's guide to paying from abroad explains the options in more detail, and our guide to money in Kenya walks through M-Pesa step by step.

Health

See a travel clinic or your doctor several weeks before you travel. They will advise on vaccines, malaria prevention for the areas you are visiting, and whether you need a yellow fever certificate, which can depend on your route and the countries you pass through. Check the current requirements on official sources, such as your government's travel health service, rather than older blog posts.

On the ground: drink bottled or filtered water, use insect repellent in the evenings, and respect the sun, which is strong at Nairobi's altitude and on the coast. We strongly recommend travel insurance that includes medical cover and evacuation.

Arriving at JKIA

Most international flights land at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) in Nairobi. The order is simple: immigration (have your passport and eTA ready), baggage, then customs, where bags are scanned. Allow anything from half an hour to over an hour, depending on how many flights land together. Single-use plastic carrier bags are banned in Kenya, so pack gifts in reusable bags.

Then you walk into the arrivals hall, which is busy. This is where arranged transport makes all the difference: a driver from our sister company, Urban Escape Luxury Cars, waits with your name, having tracked your flight, and walks you to the car. Their JKIA arrival guide covers every step, and their guide to the drive from JKIA to Westlands shows what to expect on the way into town. Our Nairobi guide covers where to stay and what to do once you are there.

Getting around

• In Nairobi, traffic sets the pace. A private driver is the calmest option at first; ride-hailing apps are widely used too.
• Kenya drives on the left. If you'd like to drive yourself, read the guides to driving in Nairobi and the documents you need, and weigh up self-drive or chauffeur.
• For longer distances, light aircraft fly to the safari parks and the coast, and the SGR train runs from Nairobi to Mombasa. See our Mombasa guide.
• Avoid driving outside towns at night.

Our guide to getting around Kenya covers trains, flights and the roads, and where to book airport pickups and car hire.

What to pack

• Layers. Nairobi and the highlands are cool in the mornings and evenings; the coast is hot.
• A light rain jacket, comfortable walking shoes and sandals.
• For safari: neutral colours, a warm fleece for early game drives, a hat, sunglasses and binoculars. Soft-sided bags if you are flying to a camp.
• Sunscreen, insect repellent and any medicines you need, in their original packaging.
• A UK-style three-pin plug adapter (Kenya uses Type G sockets).
• Reusable shopping bags, and copies of your passport and insurance.
• Modest clothes for towns and places of worship, especially on the coast.

Etiquette and culture

Kenyans are warm and polite, and greetings matter. Say hello before you ask a question: "Jambo" or "Habari" (hello) goes a long way, and "Asante" means thank you. Handshakes are common. Always ask before photographing people, and don't photograph police, soldiers or government buildings. Tipping is appreciated for good service. At markets, friendly bargaining is expected. Dress modestly away from the beach. And be patient: "pole pole", slowly slowly, is part of the charm.

You won't be doing this alone

We take care of you from the time you leave home until the time you return: your arrival, your transport, your stays and your days, with a real person answering your messages. Plan your trip with us, or explore our destination guides.