Cantanhez: chimpanzees, sacred forests and mangroves

Why Cantanhez is special

Cantanhez is unusual because its forests survived largely thanks to local tradition. Many patches are **sacred forests**, protected by communities for ceremonies and ancestors, where cutting trees was forbidden. Today the park is managed with these communities, and visits support both conservation and local income.

The park is home to **western chimpanzees**, a critically endangered subspecies, as well as colobus monkeys, Campbell's monkeys, baboons, duikers and a wealth of birds. Chimpanzees here live close to villages and fields, which makes them easier to find than in many places but also means visitors must follow guides' rules closely.

Iemberém: the base

The village of **Iemberém** has a community run **ecotourism camp** of simple bungalows, created with the support of local conservation groups. It is the place to stay, eat and arrange guides. Rooms are basic, with solar power and shared or simple facilities, and meals are home cooked rice, fish and vegetables. Contact or book ahead where you can, since phone signal and visitor numbers are both limited.

Chimpanzee walks

Walks leave early in the morning, when chimpanzees are most active. Local guides track them by calls and signs, and sightings are common but never guaranteed. Wear long trousers and closed shoes, carry water and keep quiet. Stay at a respectful distance, never feed animals and do not visit if you have a cold or other illness, as chimpanzees catch human diseases.

Other walks and visits

Guides also lead walks through mangrove edges, rice paddies and forest to see birds and monkeys, and to visit nearby **Nalú** and **Balanta** villages. Ask before photographing people, and follow your guide's advice about sacred sites, which outsiders may not enter.

On the way: Cufada and Buba

The road south passes **Buba**, a river town, and the **Lagoas de Cufada Natural Park**, a group of freshwater lagoons with huge numbers of waterbirds, crocodiles and occasional hippos. It is worth a stop if you are birding. **Saltinho**, with rapids on the Corubal river, is another scenic stop on the southern road.

Getting there

Cantanhez is a long day's drive from Bissau, through Buba or via the Saltinho road. Roads have improved but some sections remain rough, and in the rainy season they can be very slow. Shared transport runs to the regional towns of **Catió** and **Quebo**, but the last stretch is easiest with a hired vehicle and driver arranged in Bissau. Start early.

When to go

The dry season, from about December to May, is best: tracks are passable and animals gather near water. In the rains, from June to October, the forest is lush but travel is hard and some trails flood.

Practical tips

Bring all the cash you need, a torch, insect repellent, a hat and a light rain jacket. Malaria is present, so take advice before you go. Expect basic comfort and real warmth.

Responsible visits

Cantanhez works because communities benefit from protecting the forest. Pay guide and camp fees directly to the community structures, buy food and crafts locally and follow rules about sacred sites. Keep to the paths, take rubbish away with you and keep voices low near wildlife. Your visit helps show that living forests are worth more than cleared ones.