Gyeongju: the open air museum of the Silla kingdom

Why visit Gyeongju

For most of the first millennium, Gyeongju was one of the largest cities in the world and the seat of a kingdom that unified much of the Korean peninsula. Much of that heritage survives, and the low rise centre, without tall towers, keeps a calm, historic feel. It is the best place in Korea to understand the country's ancient past, and it pairs perfectly with Busan, less than an hour away.

The tomb park and old centre

Daereungwon is a park of huge grassy tumuli, the burial mounds of Silla kings and queens. Inside one, Cheonmachong, you can see how the tombs were built and a replica of the famous painted flying horse found inside. Nearby, Cheomseongdae is a stone observatory from the seventh century, one of the oldest in East Asia. The Gyeongju National Museum displays the gold crowns, belts and jewellery found in the tombs, and the great bronze Bell of King Seongdeok.

Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond

This former royal pleasure garden, once known as Anapji, is beautiful by day but magical at night, when the reconstructed pavilions are lit and reflected in the pond. Go just before sunset and stay as the lights come on. Woljeonggyo, a reconstructed covered wooden bridge across the river, is also lit up after dark.

Bulguksa and Seokguram

Bulguksa Temple, on the slopes of Tohamsan, is one of the masterpieces of Buddhist architecture in Korea, with stone stairways, twin pagodas and painted halls. Higher up the mountain, Seokguram Grotto holds a serene granite Buddha facing the East Sea, viewed through glass. Buses link the two, or you can hike between them through the forest in about an hour.

Hwangridan-gil and hanok streets

Hwangridan-gil is a lane of hanok houses converted into cafés, bakeries, craft shops and photo studios, right beside the tomb park. Try Gyeongju bread, a small pastry filled with red bean paste, and chalboribbang, a barley pancake sandwich. Gyochon Hanok Village has the historic Choi family house and a traditional liquor brewery.

Beyond the centre

Namsan, south of the city, is a mountain scattered with Buddhist carvings and pagodas, linked by easy hiking trails. Yangdong Folk Village, a UNESCO site, is a living village of Joseon dynasty houses. Bomun Lake has resorts, bike paths and cherry trees that turn it pink in early April.

Getting there and around

The KTX stops at Singyeongju Station, outside the city, with buses into the centre. From Busan you can also take regional trains or buses. In town, rent a bike: the main sights are flat and close together. Buses cover Bulguksa and Bomun Lake.

Where to stay

A hanok guesthouse near Hwangridan-gil or Gyochon puts you within walking distance of the tombs and Donggung at night. Bomun Lake has larger resort hotels.

Tips for your visit

The main sights are spread between the compact centre and the hills to the east, so plan one day for the tombs, museum, Hwangridan-gil and Donggung at night, and another for Bulguksa, Seokguram and either Yangdong or Namsan. Many restaurants close early by city standards, so eat dinner before heading to the pond. Spring and autumn weekends bring school groups and day trippers; weekdays are noticeably calmer.