Kosrae: reefs, ruins and the island of the sleeping lady

Why go

Kosrae offers what many people imagine a Pacific island should be: clear water, empty roads, green peaks, villages where people wave as you pass and almost no crowds. There are no big resorts, just a few small lodges, and the pace is gentle. It makes a calm final stop after Chuuk or Pohnpei on the island hopper route.

The Lelu ruins

On **Lelu Island**, joined to the main island by a causeway, stand the ruins of a walled city built from basalt and coral, the seat of Kosrae's kings from around the fourteenth century. High walls, compounds, tombs and canals remain in the forest, smaller but closely related to Nan Madol on Pohnpei. Paths can be overgrown; a guide or directions from your lodge help. The **Menka ruins** in the Utwe area, linked in legend to a goddess, are reached on a jungle hike with a guide.

Reefs and diving

Kosrae's fringing reef is close to shore and in good condition, with hard corals, reef sharks, turtles and good visibility. Divers explore sites around the island, and snorkellers can often swim from the shore at the lodges when the tide allows. In **Utwe Harbor** lies the wreck of the **Leonora**, the ship of the nineteenth century trader and pirate Bully Hayes, though little of it remains to see.

Mangroves and hikes

The **Utwe to Walung** area is protected as a marine park, and a canoe or kayak trip through the mangrove channels to the village of **Walung** is a highlight. For hiking, **Mount Finkol**, the highest point, is a long, muddy guided climb with views over the island, while the **Yela** valley holds a rare forest of giant ka trees with buttress roots. Shorter walks lead to waterfalls such as **Saolung**, depending on the season.

Faith and Sunday

Kosrae is strongly Congregational Christian. On Sunday almost everything closes, including restaurants and dive shops, and activities like swimming and fishing are frowned on in many places. Visitors are welcome at church, where the harmony singing is beautiful; dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered. Plan Sunday as a rest day.

Where to stay and eat

A few small lodges and eco resorts sit along the coast near Tofol and Utwe, and most have restaurants. Local food includes reef fish, breadfruit, taro and the island's sweet, green skinned Kosrae tangerines. See our places to visit for options.

Getting there and around

The island hopper flight stops at Kosrae on the route between Guam, Pohnpei and Honolulu. There is no public transport, so lodges arrange transfers and drivers. The ring road does not quite circle the island, so check travel times before day trips.

What to pack

Bring reef shoes, a rain jacket, insect repellent, reef friendly sunscreen and modest clothes for church and villages, covering shoulders and knees. Shops are small, so pack medicines and camera spares. Cash in US dollars is essential: there are very few ATMs, and cards are not accepted everywhere.

A sample three days

Spend the first day on the reef with a dive or snorkel trip from your lodge. On the second, take the mangrove canoe trip from Utwe to Walung in the morning and visit the Lelu ruins in the afternoon. On the third, walk the Yela ka forest or, if you are fit, climb Mount Finkol with a guide, and finish with sunset on the Lelu causeway. If one of your days is a Sunday, make it the church and rest day.