Aarhus: a first-timer's guide to Denmark's second city

Why go

Aarhus has a relaxed confidence. It was a European Capital of Culture in 2017, and it shows in the museums, street art and festivals. Locals cycle from the cobbled Latin Quarter to the beach in Riis Skov in minutes, and the city's mix of old and new is unusually easy to enjoy in a short stay. It is also the gateway to Jutland's family favourites, from Legoland to Djurs Sommerland.

The main sights

**ARoS Aarhus Art Museum** is the headline: a big modern art museum with Ron Mueck's giant Boy inside and **Your Rainbow Panorama**, a circular walkway of coloured glass on the roof with views over the city. **Den Gamle By**, the Old Town, is an open air museum of historic houses moved here from around Denmark, with streets from the 1800s, 1920s and 1970s, costumed staff, bakeries and shops. At Christmas it becomes one of the best festive experiences in the country. South of the city, **Moesgaard Museum** tells Denmark's prehistory and Viking story in a building with a grassy sloping roof you can walk up, and it is home to the Grauballe Man, a remarkably preserved bog body.

Neighbourhoods

The **Latin Quarter** is the oldest part of town, with cobbled streets, cafés, vintage shops and the cathedral nearby. **Aarhus Ø** is the new harbour district with the jagged white **Iceberg** apartments and the Aarhus Ø harbour bath. **Frederiksbjerg** to the south is a local favourite for cafés and bakeries around Jægergårdsgade. Along the river, **Åboulevarden** fills with bars and outdoor tables on warm evenings.

Food and drink

**Aarhus Central Food Market** gathers street food stalls in one place near the station and is ideal for groups with different tastes. The city has several celebrated restaurants and a lot of good value bistros, and its bakeries are excellent. Try a traditional Danish lunch of herring and rye, or a hot dog from a pølsevogn, the classic sausage wagon.

Beaches and nature

**Den Permanente** is a historic bathing pier and beach a short walk north of the centre. Further out, the **Marselisborg Forest** and **Moesgaard Beach** make for long walks, and the **Infinite Bridge**, a circular wooden pier, appears in summer in some years. An hour away, **Mols Bjerge National Park** has rolling hills and coast, and **Silkeborg** is the base for canoeing on the lakes.

Where to stay

Stay in the **city centre** between the station and the Latin Quarter for easy walking, or near **Aarhus Ø** for harbour views. Prices are a little lower than Copenhagen, but summer weekends and festival weeks fill fast.

Getting around

The centre is walkable, and city bikes and buses cover the rest. The **Letbane** light rail runs north along the coast to Grenaa and to the university. Fast trains reach Copenhagen in about three hours, and buses connect to Billund for **Legoland** and the **Lego House**.

Good to know

Aarhus is a student city, so term time is lively and late summer brings the Aarhus Festuge, a big arts festival usually held in late August and early September. Many museums close one day a week, often Monday, so check hours before you plan. Sundays are quiet, but bakeries and cafés stay open.