Mukalla: a first-timer's guide to Hadramawt's seafront capital

Why visit Mukalla

Mukalla is the coastal face of the Hadramawt, a working port city that feels more relaxed than Aden. Many diaspora Hadramis pass through it on their way to family in the wadi. It was held by Al-Qaeda in the Arabian Peninsula for a year until 2016, and has since been run by local Hadrami forces, with control in the province shifting between rival groups at times since then. Governments advise against all travel to Yemen, so read the advice before you plan.

Highlights

**The seafront.** The corniche fills up in the evening with families, tea sellers and people walking by the water. The old quarter's white houses line the shore.

**The Sultan's Palace (Al-Mukalla Museum).** The former palace of the Qu'aiti sultans, a white building on the waterfront, now a museum of Hadrami history, weapons, coins and royal life.

**Ghuwayzi Fort.** A small round watchtower fort perched on a rock at the old entrance to the city, the most photographed sight in Mukalla.

**Khor al-Mukalla.** A creek running through the city, landscaped with walkways, popular in the evening.

**The fish market.** Early morning boats unload tuna, kingfish and shark, and the market is a lively, noisy show.

**The old souk.** Spices, Doan honey, incense, cloth and gold in narrow lanes behind the seafront.

Day trips

**Bir Ali and Husn al-Ghurab.** West along the coast, black volcanic headlands surround white beaches. On the crow's rock of Husn al-Ghurab stand the ruins of Qana, the frankincense port of the ancient Hadramawt kingdom. Nearby is a turquoise volcanic crater lake.

**Hot springs.** Hot springs inland, such as those at Tabalah, and Hami near Al-Shihr on the coast to the east, are popular with families who come for the waters.

**Al-Shihr.** An old port east of Mukalla with a historic gate and fishing harbour.

**The road to the wadi.** The drive north crosses the high, bare plateau before dropping into Wadi Hadramawt, a full day's journey with checkpoints.

Food

Mukalla eats from the sea. Fish is baked in clay tannour ovens or grilled, then served with flatbread, rice and spicy sauces. Hadrami mandi and madhbi are everywhere, and the evening tea cafés on the seafront serve strong, sweet tea with milk. Local honey from Doan is sold in the souk.

Where to stay

A few mid-range hotels sit along the seafront and in the newer districts. Choose one recommended by family or an operator, with backup power and secure parking.

Getting there and around

Riyan Airport, east of the city, has had limited flights. Most diaspora visitors arrive by road from Seiyun, Aden or Saudi Arabia. Taxis work in town, and for trips beyond the city you need a driver who knows the checkpoints.

When to go

November to March brings pleasant warmth by the sea. Summers are very hot and humid, and the sea can be rough during the monsoon.

Etiquette

Mukalla is conservative. Dress modestly, women should cover arms, legs and hair in public, and ask before photographing people. Friday is the day of rest, and evenings are the time to be out.

Before you go

Read current travel advice, carry cash in clean US dollars and keep plans flexible. See places to visit and use the free trip planner to shape your days.