Kairouan: the holy city of the Maghreb

Why visit Kairouan

Kairouan is where you feel the depth of Tunisian history most clearly. For many Muslims it ranks among the holiest cities of Islam, and its monuments are among the oldest in the Islamic world. For visitors it is also simply a lovely place to walk: quieter than Tunis, less touristy than the coast, with whitewashed lanes and doors studded with nails in patterns.

The Great Mosque

The Great Mosque of Kairouan, also called the Mosque of Uqba, was rebuilt in the ninth century and has barely changed since. Its vast marble courtyard, ringed by arcades, slopes gently toward a cistern that collected rainwater, and its square minaret is the oldest standing in the Islamic world. Non-Muslims may enter the courtyard at set morning hours, outside prayer times, but not the prayer hall, though you can look in through the doors at the forest of ancient columns. Dress modestly: long trousers or skirts and covered shoulders, and women may be offered a covering at the gate.

Other monuments

The Mosque of the Barber, the Zaouia of Sidi Sahab, holds the tomb of a companion of the Prophet and has beautiful tilework and carved plaster around its courtyards. The Aghlabid Basins, huge round reservoirs from the ninth century, show how the city was supplied with water. In the medina, the Mosque of the Three Doors has one of the oldest carved facades in Islamic architecture. One combined ticket, sold at the tourist office and main sites, covers the main monuments.

The medina

The walled medina is easy to explore, entered through gates such as Bab ech Chouhada and Bab el Khoukha. Along the main street, Avenue Ali Belhouane, you will find carpet shops, butchers, coppersmiths and pastry makers. Look for Bir Barouta, a well inside a building where a camel turns a waterwheel, a curious and much photographed old tradition.

Carpets

Kairouan is Tunisia's carpet capital, famous for knotted rugs in deep reds and blues and for lighter woven mergoums. Many carpet shops invite you up to their rooftops for a view of the Great Mosque, then show you rugs over tea. This is enjoyable if you know it is a sales visit: never feel obliged to buy. Genuine Kairouan carpets carry an official quality label from the national crafts office, so ask to see it.

Food

Kairouan is famous for makroudh, diamond shaped semolina pastries filled with dates and soaked in syrup or honey. Buy them warm from the shops along the main street. Local restaurants serve couscous, grilled meats and chorba soup at modest prices.

Getting there

Kairouan is about an hour inland from Sousse and around two and a half hours from Tunis by louage or bus. There is no useful train line. Most travellers visit as a day trip from Sousse or stop on the way south to Tozeur, but an overnight stay lets you see the medina at dawn and dusk.

Etiquette

Kairouan is conservative. Dress modestly throughout the city, keep public affection low key, and ask before photographing people. During Ramadan and on Fridays, monuments may close for prayers, so check opening times locally. Alcohol is hard to find. Use the free trip planner to combine Kairouan with Sousse and Tozeur.