Sousse: medina, beaches and the gateway to El Jem

Why visit Sousse

Sousse gives you two holidays at once. To the north, a long strip of beach hotels runs to the marina of Port El Kantaoui, ideal for families who want sun and sea. In the centre, the old walled city is a real, busy medina where locals shop. Add excellent train links and you have a comfortable base for exploring the whole region.

The medina

The medina of Sousse is ringed by honey coloured walls built in the ninth century. Near its northern edge, the Ribat is a fortified monastery from the early Islamic period: climb the watchtower for views over the rooftops and the port. Next door, the Great Mosque has a plain, fortress like courtyard you can view from the entrance. The souks climb uphill from here, quieter and more local than those of Tunis. At the top, the kasbah houses the Sousse Archaeological Museum, with fine Roman mosaics, including scenes of the sea and of Medusa.

Beaches and Port El Kantaoui

The city beach, Boujaafar, is right by the centre and busy in summer. The better sand lies north along the hotel zone toward Port El Kantaoui, a purpose built marina village with restaurants, boat trips and golf. Families also like the water parks and the seafront promenade.

Day trip to El Jem

About an hour south by train or louage, the amphitheatre of El Jem rises above a small modern town. Built in the third century and able to hold tens of thousands of spectators, it is one of the best preserved Roman amphitheatres anywhere and a UNESCO site. You can walk the arena and the underground passages where animals and gladiators waited. The town museum, a short walk away, has superb mosaics in a reconstructed Roman villa. In summer, the El Jem International Symphonic Music Festival is held inside the amphitheatre.

Monastir and Mahdia

Monastir, just south and with its own airport, has a striking ribat used as a film set and the mausoleum of Habib Bourguiba, Tunisia's first president, who was born here. Further south, Mahdia is a quieter old town on a headland, with a fishing port, white beaches and a gate called the Skifa Kahla.

Food

Seafood is the local strength: grilled fish, octopus and calamari, usually priced by weight, so ask before ordering. Try couscous with fish, ojja, eggs in a spicy tomato sauce, and fricassé, small fried rolls stuffed with tuna, egg and olives. The medina's food stalls and the central market are the cheapest and most authentic places to eat.

Getting there and around

Trains run several times a day from Tunis, and louages, shared minibuses, leave when full. The Sahel metro, a light train, links Sousse, Monastir and Mahdia. Within town, use metered yellow taxis, and agree the meter before you set off.

Safety and tips

Sousse is generally safe and well policed, especially in the hotel areas. In 2015 a gunman killed tourists on a beach at Port El Kantaoui, and security has been strengthened since. Expect persistent but harmless sales talk in the medina and around the resort strip. Use the free trip planner to combine Sousse with Kairouan.