Tiwai Island: primates and pygmy hippos in the rainforest

Why visit

For wildlife lovers, Tiwai is the highlight of Sierra Leone. Within hours of arriving you are likely to hear and see troops of monkeys moving through the canopy. Guided walks led by local guides from the surrounding villages show you primates, hornbills, butterflies and the trees and plants used in traditional medicine. With luck, a dawn or dusk boat trip brings a glimpse of the pygmy hippo, one of Africa's rarest large mammals.

What you will see

The island's primates include the western chimpanzee, Diana monkey, western red colobus, olive colobus, king colobus, sooty mangabey, Campbell's monkey and lesser spot-nosed monkey. Birders come for hornbills, turacos and kingfishers. Chimpanzees are present but shy and not habituated, so sightings are a bonus rather than a guarantee.

A typical stay

Most visitors spend two or three nights. Days start early with a forest walk, when animals are most active. Midday is for resting in camp. Late afternoon brings another walk or a canoe trip on the Moa River, past rocky rapids and overhanging forest. Night walks reveal frogs, owls and sometimes small nocturnal mammals. Meals are cooked by local staff.

Where to stay

Accommodation is in tents on platforms and simple huts at the research camp, with shared facilities. It is basic but comfortable enough, and part of the experience. Bring a torch, insect repellent, a sleeping sheet and quick dry clothes.

Getting there

Tiwai is reached from Bo or Kenema by road to the village of Kambama or Kambama area landings, then a short boat across. The journey from Freetown takes most of a day by road, and the final stretch is rough, especially in the rainy season. Contact the sanctuary before travelling to arrange your visit and boat.

Combining with Gola

The Gola Rainforest National Park, near Kenema, protects the largest area of lowland rainforest in Sierra Leone and is a top birding destination, with species such as the white-necked picathartes. Many visitors combine a few nights at Tiwai with a stay at Gola for a deeper rainforest trip.

Health and comfort

This is a malaria area, so take prevention seriously. Drink treated or bottled water, wear long sleeves at dusk and use repellent. The forest is hot and humid, so carry water on walks and pace yourself.

Breaking the journey in Bo

Bo, the country's second city, is the natural overnight stop on the way to Tiwai. It is a relaxed, green town with a busy central market, simple hotels and good local cookery shops serving cassava leaf and groundnut stew. Bo School, founded in 1906, is one of the country's best known institutions. Stocking up on cash, water and snacks here is wise before heading into the forest.

Responsible wildlife watching

Keep your voice low on walks, follow your guide's instructions and never feed or approach animals. Do not use flash photography at night, and stay well back from the river banks when looking for hippos. Plastic should leave the island with you. Fees paid to the sanctuary support local villages and the protection of the forest, which is the main reason the island's wildlife has survived. Asking guides about their lives and the history of the area, including how the community kept the sanctuary going through difficult years, makes the visit richer for everyone.