The Freetown Peninsula: Sierra Leone's best beaches

The beaches, north to south

**Lakka** is the closest to Freetown, with simple bars, fish shacks and a busy Sunday scene. **Hamilton** next door is a working fishing beach. Further on, **Sussex** is calm and family friendly.

**River Number Two** is the postcard: a river winds out of the forest across bright sand into a turquoise bay. The beach is managed by the community, which runs a restaurant, chalets and canoe trips upriver to a small waterfall. Come on a weekday to have it almost to yourself.

**Tokeh** is a long, wide sweep of sand with a handful of resorts and guesthouses, ideal for walking and sunsets. **Mama Beach** nearby is smaller and quieter. **Bureh Beach** is the country's surf spot, home to a community surf club that trains local young people and offers lessons and boards. **John Obey** is often empty and has seen turtle conservation work. **Kent**, at the tip, is the departure point for boats to the Banana Islands.

Things to do

The pleasures here are simple: swimming, walking, surfing, eating fish fresh from the canoes and watching fishermen haul in nets at dawn. Take a canoe up River Number Two, learn to surf at Bureh, or visit the historic Krio village of York. Hikers can arrange guides to walk into the hills of the Western Area Peninsula National Park.

Where to stay

There is a choice from community chalets and surf club huts to comfortable resorts at Tokeh. Power and hot water may be limited at simpler places, so ask before booking. In the Christmas and Easter holidays, and on long weekends, the better places fill with Freetown families and returning diaspora, so book ahead.

Food

Every beach serves grilled fish, often barracuda or snapper, with rice, chips or fried plantain and a fiery pepper sauce. Lobster and prawns are common in season. Cold Star beer, soft drinks and fresh coconut are everywhere.

Swimming safely

The Atlantic here can have strong currents and rip tides, especially in the rainy season. There are rarely lifeguards. Swim where locals swim, stay within your depth, never swim alone or after drinking, and ask the beach staff about conditions each day.

Getting there

The peninsula road runs south from Freetown through Lumley and Goderich. Expect around an hour to Lakka and closer to two to Bureh or Kent, depending on traffic leaving the city. Many visitors arrange transport through their guesthouse; shared taxis also run to the villages. Avoid driving the road after dark.

A suggested three day stay

On day one, leave Freetown early to beat the traffic and stop at Lakka for a swim and lunch before continuing to River Number Two for the afternoon light. Stay the night so you can walk the empty sand at dawn and take a canoe upriver into the mangroves before the day trippers arrive. On day two, move to Tokeh for long walks and a slow lunch, then continue to Bureh in the afternoon for a surf lesson and sundowners with the surf club crowd. On day three, visit the fishing village at Kent, watch the canoes come in and either cross to the Banana Islands or head back to Freetown before dark.

Good to know

Cash is essential, as card payments are rare outside the larger resorts and there are no cash machines on most of the coast. Weekends are lively and weekdays very quiet. Bring reef safe sun cream, a hat and insect repellent for the evenings, when sandflies and mosquitoes come out. Many beaches charge a small community entry fee, which helps keep them clean, so keep some small notes handy and ask for a receipt.