Kabala and the northern highlands

Why go north

Most visitors never leave the coast, which is a shame. The north shows a completely different Sierra Leone: big skies, cattle herders, rice and groundnut farms, thatched villages and hills you can climb for views across the plains. It suits travellers who enjoy hiking and are happy with simple accommodation.

Kabala town

Kabala is a small, friendly market town. The market brings together traders from across the region, and cattle are bought and sold by Fula herders. Gbawuria Hill rises right above the town and makes an easy climb for sunset views; at Christmas it becomes the focus of local celebrations. Walk out into the Wara Wara Mountains with a local guide to explore granite outcrops and villages.

Mount Bintumani

Mount Bintumani, in the Loma Mountains, is the highest point in Sierra Leone and one of the highest in West Africa west of Cameroon. The trek usually takes three to five days from Kabala, travelling by road to the trailhead village of Sinekoro or nearby, then walking through farmland, montane forest and grassland to the summit. You need a local guide and porters, camping gear or village accommodation and permission from the communities along the way. The dry season is the only sensible time to go.

Other sights in the north

On the way north, Makeni is the main city of the region and a useful stop. Bumbuna, with its waterfall and hydroelectric lake, is a scenic detour. Outamba-Kilimi National Park, near the Guinea border, protects savanna and riverine forest with primates and birds, though facilities are minimal. Lake Sonfon, a highland lake with local legends, rewards the adventurous.

Where to stay

Kabala has a few simple guesthouses. Expect basic rooms, intermittent electricity and bucket showers in some places. On treks you will camp or stay in village houses.

Getting there

The road from Freetown runs via Makeni and is mostly paved, but the last stretch can be slow. Allow most of a day. Shared taxis and minibuses leave from Freetown and Makeni; private transport is more comfortable. Avoid road travel at night.

Practical tips

Carry cash, as there are few cash machines in the north. Bring warm layers for cool nights on the mountain, good walking shoes, water treatment and a torch. Greet elders and chiefs in villages, and let your guide handle introductions.

Culture and people

The north is home to several of Sierra Leone's peoples. The Koranko and Yalunka are farmers of the hills, the Fula are traditionally cattle herders and traders, and the Limba are known for palm wine tapping and rice farming. Most people are Muslim, with many Christians too, and religious tolerance is a point of pride. Market days are the best time to see the region's life, with herders, farmers and traders arriving from surrounding villages. Dress modestly, ask before taking photographs and accept invitations to sit and talk when you can, as hospitality matters here.

A suggested route

Leave Freetown early and break the journey in Makeni, where you can visit the Wusum Hills and eat lunch. Continue to Kabala in the afternoon and climb Gbawuria Hill for sunset. Spend a day exploring the Wara Wara Mountains with a guide, then set off on a three to five day trek to Mount Bintumani if you have the time and fitness. On the way back, consider a detour to Bumbuna Falls before returning to the coast.