The Banana Islands: reefs, villages and history off the peninsula

Why go

The Banana Islands offer a different side of Sierra Leone: village life, clear water, rocky reefs and a past that ties into the story of the Atlantic slave trade and the settlement of freed Africans. They are close enough to reach in an afternoon yet feel far from Freetown's traffic.

A little history

European traders used the islands from the seventeenth century, and the remains of a church, old cannons and walls in Dublin village date from the slave trading and colonial periods. In the nineteenth century, liberated Africans were settled here, and many islanders today descend from them. Locals are happy to show you around and tell the story.

Things to do

Walk the forest path between Dublin and Ricketts, with views over the sea. Snorkel around the rocks off the beaches, where you will see reef fish and sometimes turtles. Arrange a boat to Mes Meheux for a picnic on your own small island, or head out with fishermen at dawn. In the evening, there is not much to do but watch the sunset and eat freshly grilled fish or lobster, which is the point.

Where to stay

Accommodation is simple: a few guesthouses and beach chalets, chiefly around Dublin, with meals cooked for guests. Power often comes from generators or solar for a few hours a day. Bring a torch, cash and anything you might need, as there are no shops beyond small village stalls.

Getting there

Drive or take transport to Kent at the end of the peninsula road, then take a small boat across. Most guesthouses arrange the boat when you book. The crossing is short but can be rough, especially between June and October. Insist on life jackets, keep valuables in a dry bag and avoid crossing late in the day.

Respecting the villages

These are small communities. Dress modestly in the villages, ask before photographing people and support local guides and cooks. A small contribution to a village fund is often welcomed if someone shows you around, and buying meals locally spreads the benefit.

Combining with the peninsula

The islands fit neatly into a few days on the peninsula: a night or two at Tokeh or Bureh, then Kent and the boat across. Return to Freetown the same way.

What to pack

Pack light but think ahead. Bring a dry bag for the boat, reef shoes for the rocky shore, a mask and snorkel if you have them, sun protection, insect repellent, a torch or headlamp, a power bank and any medicines you need. Carry enough cash in small leone notes for the boat, meals, guides and tips, since there are no cash machines and cards are not accepted. Drinking water is best brought from the mainland or bought in sealed bottles.

A suggested two day visit

Cross from Kent in the morning while the sea is calm. Settle into your guesthouse, then walk around Dublin with a local guide to see the old church, cannons and walls, and hear about the island's past. Spend the afternoon snorkelling and swimming, and eat grilled fish as the sun sets. On the second day, walk the forest path to Ricketts, take a boat to Mes Meheux for a picnic and a swim, and return to Kent by early afternoon, before the wind picks up. It is a short trip that many visitors remember as the most peaceful part of their time in Sierra Leone.