Nizwa and the Hajar mountains: forts, oases and canyons

Why visit

If Muscat shows modern Oman, the interior shows where it came from. This is a land of falaj irrigation channels, date gardens, watchtowers and mud brick villages, set against some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in Arabia. It is also cooler: Jebel Akhdar and Jebel Shams can be pleasant when the coast is hot, and cold on winter nights.

Nizwa Fort and souq

Nizwa Fort was built in the seventeenth century, and its great round tower, filled with earth for strength, is the town's symbol. Inside, rooms explain daily life, defence and the imams who ruled from here, and the view from the top over the palms is superb. The souq beside it was restored in a traditional style, with separate halls for fish, meat, vegetables, dates and crafts. Look for Nizwa's silver jewellery, khanjars and clay pots.

The Friday goat market

Every Friday morning, from about seven, men parade goats, sheep and cattle in a circle beside the souq while buyers call out offers. It is noisy, friendly and a genuine local event rather than a show. Arrive early, dress modestly and ask before photographing people up close. It winds down by mid morning.

Bahla and Jabrin

Bahla Fort, half an hour from Nizwa, is a vast mud brick fortress listed by UNESCO, surrounded by twelve kilometres of old walls. Nearby Jabrin Castle is smaller but more refined, a seventeenth century palace with painted wooden ceilings, carved doors and secret passages. Al Hamra, a village of old multi storey mud houses, and the Misfat al Abriyeen hamlet, where lanes run beside a falaj through the palms, are lovely short stops.

Jebel Akhdar

The Green Mountain plateau, at around two thousand metres, is reached by a steep paved road with a police checkpoint that only lets four wheel drive vehicles through. Up top are terraced villages such as Wadi Bani Habib, Al Aqr and Al Ayn, where damask roses bloom in spring and are distilled into rose water in April. Walking trails link the villages along the canyon edge, and pomegranates, walnuts and apricots grow on the terraces.

Jebel Shams and the canyon

Jebel Shams is Oman's highest mountain. Beside it, Wadi Ghul drops into a canyon often called the Grand Canyon of Arabia. The Balcony Walk, a ledge trail of around three hours return, leads to the abandoned village of As Sab, built into the cliff. Stay overnight to see the stars; it gets cold, so bring layers.

Where to stay

Nizwa has mid-range hotels and heritage guesthouses inside restored houses in the old quarter. On Jebel Akhdar there are a few luxury resorts with canyon views and simpler hotels. Jebel Shams has basic resorts and camps on the plateau.

Getting there and around

The highway from Muscat is good, and Mwasalat runs buses to Nizwa. Beyond the town, public transport is thin, so most travellers self drive or join a guided tour. Mountain roads are steep; take them slowly. Use the free trip planner to fit the interior into your route, and see places to visit for stays and food.