Yaren: a first-timer's guide to where Nauru begins

Getting your bearings

Yaren sits on the south coast of Nauru, on the narrow coastal belt between the reef and the raised plateau of Topside. The **ring road** passes straight through, and the **airport runway** takes up much of the flat land, so the road runs alongside it. From Yaren you can walk or cycle east to Meneng and Anibare Bay, or west through Boe toward Aiwo. Every direction eventually brings you back, because the whole country is one loop of about nineteen kilometres.

Parliament and government

The **Parliament House of Nauru** stands opposite the airport terminal. It is a modest building for one of the smallest legislatures in the world, with eighteen members. Government offices are close by. You can see the buildings from outside; if you hope to watch a sitting, ask politely and dress smartly. Remember that Nauru is a small community, and senior officials are people you may meet at the store or the beach.

Moqua Well and the caves

The most unexpected sight in Yaren is **Moqua Well**, a freshwater lake inside a limestone cave beneath the island. For generations it was a vital source of water during the droughts that strike Nauru. Nearby, the **Moqua Caves** extend into the coral rock. The cave floors are slippery and dark, and conditions change with rain, so go with someone local who knows the site, bring a torch and wear proper shoes. Do not swim in the well unless locals tell you it is safe.

The reef and the foreshore

At low tide the **reef flat** off Yaren opens into a wide platform of pools, coral and small fish. Children hunt for crabs, and anglers cast from the edge in the evening. Wear reef shoes, watch the tide and keep well back from the outer edge, where waves break hard and currents are dangerous. In the evening, the **foreshore** is a lovely place to watch the sun drop toward the sea.

Wartime traces

Japan occupied Nauru from 1942 to 1945, and concrete **pillboxes** and bunkers still sit along parts of the coast near Yaren. Most of the larger relics are up on Command Ridge, but the coastal remains are a reminder of how much the war touched this small island, including the deportation of many Nauruans to Chuuk.

National days

Yaren is the stage for national celebrations. **Independence Day** on 31 January marks freedom in 1968. **Angam Day** on 26 October celebrates the recovery of the Nauruan population after it fell perilously low. **Constitution Day** in May brings sports contests, and **RONPhos Handover Day** on 1 July remembers Nauruans taking control of phosphate mining. If your visit falls on one of these days, expect ceremonies, dancing and family gatherings, and expect some offices to be closed.

Food and supplies

Yaren has a handful of small stores and takeaways along the ring road, selling cold drinks, snacks, rice dishes, noodles and fried chicken. For a bigger supermarket, head to the Civic Centre in Aiwo. Restaurant choices on Nauru are limited across the whole island, so many visitors eat at their hotel for some meals.

Getting around

Most people walk, cycle or ride with someone they know. The distances are short, but the sun is fierce, so carry water and a hat. Traffic drives on the left. Stray dogs can be a nuisance, especially at night, so keep your distance. Use the places finder to map stops before you set out.

Arriving and leaving

The airport is tiny and arrivals are quick once your paperwork is in order. Have your visa approval, onward ticket and accommodation details printed. Arrive in good time for departures, because flights are limited and missing one can mean a wait of several days.