Aiwo: Nauru's phosphate port and shopping hub

The cantilevers

The most striking sight in Aiwo is the pair of **phosphate cantilevers**, huge steel arms that stretch out over the reef. Because Nauru has no deep natural harbour, ships moored offshore while phosphate was carried out to them along these arms. They have become a symbol of the island, and at sunset their silhouettes against a red sky make the most memorable photo in the country. View them from public areas and respect any safety fences.

The phosphate works

Behind the coast stand the storage bins, drying plant and offices of **RONPhos**, the national phosphate company. Mining began here in the early twentieth century under German and then British, Australian and New Zealand control. Nauruans took control of the industry in 1970, and the wealth briefly made Nauru one of the richest countries per person in the world. Today mining continues on a smaller scale. Treat the works as an industrial site: look from the road and do not enter without permission.

The Civic Centre

The **Civic Centre** is the closest thing Nauru has to a town centre. You will find **Capelle and Partner**, the best known supermarket on the island, along with other shops, the **post office** and various services. Stock up on water, snacks and anything you need for the days ahead, because choices elsewhere are limited. The post office is a good place to buy Nauruan **stamps** and send a postcard from one of the least visited countries on earth.

Linkbelt Oval

Australian rules football is Nauru's national sport, and **Linkbelt Oval** is its main ground. On weekends during the season, districts compete in lively, good-humoured matches watched by much of the island. It is one of the easiest ways for a visitor to join in local life: sit with the crowd, cheer the good plays and you will soon have company.

Where to stay and eat

The **Od-N-Aiwo Hotel** is one of only two hotels on Nauru, a simple, practical base close to the shops. Its restaurant serves straightforward meals. Elsewhere in Aiwo, small Chinese-run restaurants and takeaways serve rice, noodles, fried fish and chicken, the everyday food of the island. Fresh tuna and coconut fish are Nauruan favourites, best tasted if you are invited to a family meal.

The harbour and reef

The small **Aiwo boat harbour** sits near the cantilevers. Children swim in its sheltered water, and fishermen land their catch. At low tide the **reef flat** between Aiwo and Denigomodu opens up for an easy walk in reef shoes. As everywhere on Nauru, the outer reef edge is dangerous, so stay well back.

Denigomodu and Location

North of Aiwo, **Denigomodu** district holds the hospital, schools and the settlement known as **Location**, built for workers in the mining industry. It is a lived-in, everyday part of the island, worth seeing on a walk or cycle round the ring road, but be respectful: this is a residential area, not a sight.

Getting around

Aiwo is about a fifteen minute ride from the airport at Yaren. Walking and cycling are both practical if you start early. Roads from here climb onto the plateau toward Buada Lagoon and Topside, and the ring road continues north and round to Anibare Bay. See places to visit for more stops nearby.