Moldova's wine country: cellars, estates and tastings

The underground wine cities

**Cricova**, on the northern edge of Chișinău, has dozens of kilometres of tunnels under the town, with streets named after grape varieties. Tours run by electric train through the galleries to tasting rooms and to a collection that includes historic bottles. Tours must be booked ahead, and you must bring identification.

**Mileștii Mici**, south of the capital, holds a famous collection of wine bottles in its huge network of galleries, recognised by Guinness World Records as the largest of its kind. Visitors usually drive their own vehicle or a tour vehicle through the tunnels between tasting halls. It is cool underground all year, so bring a layer.

The estates

**Castel Mimi**, in Bulboaca, is a restored stone castle winery from the late nineteenth century with gardens, a restaurant, tastings and a hotel. **Asconi**, nearby, is a family winery known for its welcoming restaurant and setting. **Château Vartely**, near Orhei, combines tastings with a hotel and restaurant, and is a good stop on the way to Orheiul Vechi. **Cojușna** and **Poiana** are other names you will see near the capital.

The south east: Purcari and Ștefan Vodă

**Purcari**, near the Dniester in the Ștefan Vodă district, is one of the oldest and best known estates in the country, famous for its red Negru de Purcari. It has a restaurant, cottages and lakeside grounds, and makes a lovely overnight stop. The wider region also has **Et Cetera**, a family winery with a restaurant and rooms. Combine it with a visit to South Moldova and Gagauzia.

The grapes

Moldovan winemakers grow international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but the local grapes are the real discovery. Look for **Fetească Neagră** and **Rară Neagră** in reds, and **Fetească Albă**, **Fetească Regală** and **Viorica** in whites. Sparkling wine, especially from Cricova, is popular for celebrations, and divin, the local brandy, is a classic gift.

Festivals

**National Wine Day** (Ziua Națională a Vinului) takes place on the first weekend of October in central Chișinău, with dozens of producers pouring wine, folk music and crowds in the square. Smaller events, including spring wine festivals and harvest gatherings, run through the year; check the official tourism site for dates.

Getting around safely

Moldova has a zero tolerance approach to drink driving, so plan for a sober driver. Most visitors join a day tour from Chișinău or hire a driver who knows the estates. Book cellar tours in advance, especially at weekends and in the harvest season, and confirm times directly with each winery.

Bringing wine home

Check your home country's customs allowance for alcohol, and wrap bottles well. Many wineries sell gift packs and can advise on packing.

Choosing your wineries

If you only have one day, pair one of the giant cellars with one estate: Cricova in the morning and Château Vartely for lunch on the way north, or Mileștii Mici followed by Castel Mimi and Asconi to the south east. With two or three days, add Purcari and a night in the south. Smaller family wineries often give the most personal visits, with the winemaker pouring, so ask your driver or tour company which ones are currently taking guests.

Plan a wine route with the free trip planner, and see our places to visit list for wineries, wine bars and stays.