Kwajalein and Ebeye: the military atoll and its neighbour

Understanding Kwajalein Atoll

Kwajalein Atoll is shaped like a giant boomerang, its rim of almost a hundred islets enclosing one of the largest lagoons on earth. The atoll's main island, **Kwajalein**, and several others are leased to the United States and form the **Ronald Reagan Ballistic Missile Defense Test Site**, run by **US Army Garrison Kwajalein Atoll**. Missiles launched from California splash down in the lagoon, which gives the atoll a role in global security out of all proportion to its size.

Kwajalein Island: who can visit

Kwajalein Island is a closed military installation. The United Island Hopper lands at **Bucholz Army Airfield** on Kwajalein, but passengers who are not cleared to enter the base usually must stay in the airport area or transfer straight to the ferry to Ebeye. To go further you need an approved sponsor on the base and advance clearance. Rules are set by the US Army and can change, so check before you travel and never assume you can wander the island.

Ebeye

**Ebeye** lies a few kilometres north of Kwajalein Island and is home to a large share of the country's population on a strip of land so small you can walk around it in an hour or so. Many residents work on the base, commuting by ferry each day. The result is one of the most densely populated places in the Pacific: houses packed tight, children everywhere, small shops, churches and a lively waterfront. A causeway now links Ebeye to neighbouring islets to the north, easing some of the pressure.

Visiting Ebeye is not a beach holiday. It is a chance to see the reality of modern Marshallese life, shaped by the nuclear era, the base economy and the challenge of living on very little land. People are welcoming and proud of their community.

Getting between Kwajalein and Ebeye

A passenger ferry runs between the dock near the Kwajalein airport and Ebeye several times a day, mainly for base workers. Check current times locally. Ask the airline, your hotel on Ebeye or your sponsor how the transfer works for non-badged visitors, because procedures depend on base rules.

War history

Kwajalein was a major Japanese base in the Second World War and was captured by US forces in **February 1944** in a fierce battle. Wrecks of Japanese ships and aircraft still lie in the lagoon, making it a significant wreck diving site for those with base access and permits. On Ebeye and nearby islets, ask locals about remaining relics, and treat any memorials with respect.

Where to stay

Ebeye has a small number of simple hotels and guesthouses aimed mostly at business travellers and visiting officials. Expect basic rooms, air conditioning that may falter in power cuts, and limited food options. Book ahead and confirm your arrangements by email before flying.

Food

Ebeye's food is practical: rice plates, fried chicken, fish, ramen and imported snacks from small stores and family restaurants. Look for fresh reef fish and tuna when the boats come in, and breadfruit or pandanus brought in from outer islands.

Practical tips

Carry cash, as cards are rarely accepted and ATMs are limited. Drink bottled water, because the local supply is under strain. Dress modestly. Respect privacy when taking photographs in such a crowded place, and never photograph military installations on Kwajalein. Plan your onward flight carefully, since the Island Hopper only stops a few times a week.