Lilongwe: a first-timer's guide to Malawi's capital

Why visit Lilongwe

Most international flights land at Kamuzu International Airport, about half an hour north of the city, so Lilongwe is where your trip usually begins and ends. A day or two here lets you get over the journey, pick up local cash and a SIM card, stock up on supplies and ease into the pace of the country before heading to the lake or the parks.

How the city is laid out

Lilongwe is spread out and divided into numbered Areas rather than named districts, so addresses often read Area 3, Area 10 or Area 47. Old Town, in the south around Area 2 and Area 3, is the original trading town and the liveliest part of the city. City Centre, also called Capital City, sits a few kilometres north around Capital Hill, home to government offices, banks and some hotels. Leafy residential Areas such as 10, 12 and 43 hold many of the guesthouses, embassies and restaurants.

Old Town and the markets

Old Town Market is the place to feel Lilongwe's energy, with stalls of chitenje fabric, second hand clothes, hardware, tools and produce. Nearby Tsoka Market is the food side of the city, with piles of dried usipa fish, beans, groundnuts and seasonal fruit. Keep valuables out of sight and go in daylight. The craft sellers near the old post office have carved chief's chairs, wooden animals, baskets and beadwork, and haggling with a smile is expected.

Wildlife in the city

The Lilongwe Wildlife Centre, set in a strip of woodland along the Lingadzi River, cares for rescued and orphaned animals and runs guided visits and woodland trails. It is a good introduction to Malawi's conservation story and a peaceful break from the traffic.

Capital Hill and history

The marble Kamuzu Mausoleum honours Hastings Kamuzu Banda, who led Malawi for three decades after independence in 1964. Nearby, the modern Parliament Building stands on the site of the former New State House. Avoid photographing government buildings and police without permission.

Food and drink

Lilongwe has the best range of restaurants in Malawi. Try nsima, the stiff maize porridge eaten with relishes, with grilled chambo, the lake's famous fish, in simple local places. Old Town Mall and the Four Seasons Centre have well known Italian, grill and café options, and good coffee from the northern Mzuzu cooperative is easy to find. Indian and Chinese restaurants reflect long settled communities.

Day trips from Lilongwe

Dedza, about an hour and a half south on the M1, is known for Dedza Pottery and for the Chongoni Rock Art Area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of paintings by BaTwa hunter gatherers and Chewa farmers. Mua Mission's KuNgoni Centre explains Chewa, Ngoni and Yao culture, including the masked Gule Wamkulu dances. Senga Bay, near Salima, is the closest lakeshore beach for a quick escape. Dzalanyama Forest Reserve offers birding and walking in miombo woodland.

Getting around

Lilongwe is too spread out to walk between areas. Use taxis booked through your hotel or a ride app where available, and agree the fare before you set off with street taxis. Minibuses are cheap and frequent but crowded, and they are best avoided with luggage. Do not walk after dark, even short distances, as street lighting is limited and muggings happen.

Where to stay

First-timers usually stay in Area 10, Area 43 or near City Centre for quieter, safer streets, or at a lodge on the edge of town such as Kumbali. Backpackers favour the camps around Area 9 and Old Town. Fuel and power cuts can affect smaller places, so ask about backup power when you book.