Byblos: a first-timer's guide to Lebanon's ancient harbour town

Why go

Few places let you walk through so many layers of history in one morning. Neolithic huts, Bronze Age temples, Phoenician royal tombs, a Roman theatre and a crusader castle all sit within one compact site above the sea. Then you step out into a pretty old souk and down to a harbour lined with fish restaurants. It is the most rewarding easy day trip from Beirut and a lovely place to stay a night.

Top things to do

Start at the **Byblos archaeological site**, entered through the twelfth century **crusader castle**. Climb the keep for views over the ruins and the sea, then follow the paths to the Obelisk Temple, the Temple of Baalat Gebal, the royal tombs and the small Roman theatre set on the cliff edge. Allow two hours and go early in summer, as there is little shade.

Next, wander the **old souk**, a few lanes of stone shops selling fossils, crafts, soap, jewellery and souvenirs, with cafés tucked between them. The fossil fish of the mountains above Byblos are a local speciality; buy from established shops.

Visit the **Church of Saint John Mark**, a crusader era church with an open air baptistery, and the **Sultan Abdul Majid Mosque** nearby. Walk down to the **old harbour**, one of the oldest ports in the world, where fishing boats still tie up below the ancient walls.

The **Byblos International Festival** brings international and Arab musicians to an open air stage by the sea in summer, in years when it goes ahead. In the evening the souk and the harbour fill with families and couples, and the bars of the old town stay busy late on weekends.

Beaches

There are public and private beaches just south of the old town, from simple sand to beach clubs with pools. The water is clear and calm on summer mornings.

Food

Eat fresh fish and mezze at the harbour, try manakish in the souk and stop for ice cream or knafeh in the evening. Restaurants range from long established seafood houses to small cafés and modern Lebanese kitchens.

Where to stay

Stay in or near the old town to walk everywhere, choosing from small guesthouses in restored stone houses and a few mid-range hotels and beach resorts along the coast. Weekends in summer fill fast, so book ahead.

Getting there

Byblos lies on the coastal highway north of Beirut. Taxi apps and private drivers booked through your hotel are the easiest options; shared vans and buses leave from Beirut's Charles Helou and Dora areas and drop you on the highway, a short walk from the old town. Avoid weekday rush hour, when the coast road out of Beirut slows to a crawl.

Combining Byblos

Pair Byblos with the Jeita Grotto and Harissa on a day from Beirut, or continue north to Batroun for a night by the sea and then up into the Qadisha Valley.

How long to stay

A full day is enough for the site, souk and harbour, but a night lets you see the souk lit up and the harbour at its calmest in the morning before the day trippers arrive.