Batroun: a guide to Lebanon's favourite beach town

Why go

If Beirut is where Lebanon goes out, Batroun is where it relaxes. The pace is slower, the sea is close and the town has a lovely balance of history and holiday. It is a favourite with young Lebanese in summer, with families on weekends, and with visitors who want a coastal base on the way north into the mountains.

Top things to do

Start in the **old town**, a tangle of sandstone lanes around the **Saint Stephen Cathedral** on the little harbour, with the Greek Orthodox Church of Saint George a few steps away. Walk to the **Phoenician wall**, a long natural sandstone reef reinforced by the Phoenicians to protect the town from the sea, where people swim and watch the sunset.

Try the town's famous **lemonade**, made with fresh lemons and often a hint of blossom water, at one of the old lemonade shops. The **Our Lady of the Sea** chapel on a rock by the water makes a pretty photo at golden hour.

Inland, the **Mseilha Fort**, a small castle built on a rock in the Nahr el Jawz valley, is a short drive away and fun for children to climb. The **Batroun wineries** in the hills offer tastings with views to the coast; book ahead and arrange a driver if you plan to drink.

For a day in the hills, visit the old stone village of **Douma**, with its red roofed houses and souk, or the Saint Charbel monastery at **Annaya** in the mountains to the south.

Beaches

Batroun is known for some of the cleanest water on the Lebanese coast. There are pebbly public spots along the town's edge and a string of beach clubs and simple beach bars to the north and south, some with music into the night. Weekends in July and August are very busy; weekdays are calmer.

Food and nightlife

Seafood is the star: grilled fish, fried calamari and shrimp with lemon and garlic, served with mezze by the water. The old town has bakeries, cafés and small modern restaurants, and in summer the lanes turn into an open air bar street, with music and crowds on weekend nights.

Where to stay

Choose a guesthouse in the old town to walk everywhere, a beach resort for a pool and sea views, or a mountain guesthouse inland for cooler nights. Summer weekends sell out, so book early.

Getting there

Batroun is on the coastal highway north of Byblos. Taxi apps, hotel arranged drivers and buses and vans from Beirut towards Tripoli all stop on the highway near the town.

Safety and practical notes

Batroun is a calm, friendly town. Check your government's travel advice for Tripoli and the far north before heading on beyond Batroun, and carry cash, as smaller places may not take cards.

When to visit

The beach season runs from about May to October, with July and August the busiest and liveliest months. Spring and autumn are quieter and lovely for wineries and walks in the hills. In winter, the town is calm, many beach clubs close and it becomes a peaceful stop on the way to the mountains. Easter and the summer saints' days bring processions and local celebrations to the old town churches.

What to pack

Pack modest clothes for churches and monasteries, sun protection and water. Bring a light jacket for evenings, comfortable shoes for stone lanes and cash for small purchases, and allow extra time for winding roads and weekend traffic.