The Fouta Djallon: Guinea's cool, green highlands

Dalaba

At around twelve hundred metres, **Dalaba** was a colonial hill station and still feels like one, with pine forests, misty mornings and cool nights. Visit the **Case de Belle Vue**, the hilltop house where African leaders met in the late colonial years, and the old **Jardin Chevalier** botanical garden. Dalaba is a calm place to recover from the drive and start walking.

Pita, Doucky and the great waterfalls

Near **Pita**, the village of **Doucky** is the best known hiking base in Guinea. Local guides lead walks through canyons, rock arches, natural pools and forest, staying in village guesthouses or family compounds. It is a wonderful way to see rural Fulani life.

The area is full of waterfalls. The **Chutes de Kambadaga** are a series of powerful falls, at their best from August to November. The nearby **Chutes de Kinkon** are wide and easy to reach. The **Chutes de Ditinn**, between Dalaba and Pita, drop from a high cliff and are among the tallest in West Africa. Paths can be steep and slippery, so wear good shoes and walk with a guide.

Labe

**Labe** is the largest town in the Fouta and its historic religious and cultural centre, once part of the Fulani theocratic state of the Fouta Djallon. The **Grande Mosquee** and the busy **central market** are the main sights, and the town is a good place for leather goods, cloth and supplies before heading further north.

Mali and the Dame de Mali

North of Labe, the small town of **Mali** sits near the highest point of the Fouta Djallon. The famous **Dame de Mali**, a cliff that looks like a woman's face in profile, overlooks a huge drop toward the plains. The roads are rough and the area is remote, but the views and the quiet are unforgettable.

Village life and culture

The Fouta Djallon is the homeland of the Fulani, or Peul, people, and Pular is the main language. Islam is central to life here, so dress modestly, ask before photographing people and remove shoes when invited into homes or mosques. Weekly markets, called loumo, are lively gatherings of herders and traders. Try fonio, the tiny highland grain, fresh milk and lait caille, and the leaf sauces that go with rice.

Planning a highland trip

Most visitors hire a driver for the trip from Conakry, often for a week or more, or use shared taxis between towns. Roads have improved between the main towns but side tracks to waterfalls and villages are rough, especially after rain. Never travel at night.

Hire local guides for hikes: they know the paths, smooth your welcome in villages and support the local economy. Accommodation ranges from simple hotels in Dalaba, Pita and Labe to village guesthouses with basic facilities. Bring a torch, water purification, a warm layer for the nights and enough Guinean francs, as ATMs are few and unreliable away from Labe.

The dry season from November to March is the most comfortable for hiking. September and October bring the fullest waterfalls but muddy trails.