Accra: a first-timer's guide to Ghana's capital

Why Accra is worth your time

Accra does not have one big postcard sight. Its charm is in its neighbourhoods, its people and its rhythm: fishermen hauling canoes in Jamestown, highlife and Afrobeats spilling out of bars in Osu, families on the beach at weekends and galleries showing some of the most talked-about artists on the continent. It is also the easiest place in West Africa for an English-speaking first-timer to find their feet.

The neighbourhoods, explained

• **Jamestown and Ussher Town** are the oldest parts of the city, home to the Ga people, the lighthouse, the fishing harbour and the ruins of old forts. Come with a local guide for the best experience.
• **Osu** is the lively heart for visitors, with Oxford Street's shops and banks, bars, restaurants and the old Osu Castle on the seafront.
• **Cantonments, Airport Residential and Ridge** are leafy and calmer, with embassies, hotels, smart restaurants and galleries.
• **Labadi and La** hold the city's best-known beach and several big hotels.
• **East Legon** is an upmarket suburb near the University of Ghana with cafés, malls and an art space or two.
• **Central Accra** around Makola Market is crowded, noisy and endlessly fascinating.

What to do

Start with history. The Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park tells the story of Ghana's first president and the independence that inspired a continent, and Independence Square with its Black Star Gate shows the scale of that pride. The W.E.B. Du Bois Centre in Cantonments is a quiet, moving stop for anyone interested in Pan-African history.

Then walk Jamestown with a local guide. Climb the lighthouse for views over the colourful canoes, see the old Ussher and James forts and look out for murals left by the Chale Wote Street Art Festival each August.

For art, visit Gallery 1957, the Nubuke Foundation and the Artists Alliance Gallery. For shopping, the Centre for National Culture sells kente, drums and carvings, while Makola Market is a full immersion in West African commerce. Go with patience and small notes.

Beaches in the city can be busy and not always clean; Labadi is fun for music and people watching. For a calmer swim, head west to Kokrobite or Bojo Beach, or plan a day trip up to the Aburi Botanical Gardens or Shai Hills.

What and where to eat

Accra is a great food city. Try jollof rice and argue about whether Ghana's is better than Nigeria's, waakye for breakfast, banku or kenkey with grilled tilapia and pepper sauce, fufu with light soup at a chop bar, kelewele (spicy fried plantain) from a night street vendor and red red (beans with fried plantain). Buka, Asanka Local and the many chop bars across the city are good starting points, while Airport Residential and Osu have international restaurants and smart lounges for a night out.

Where to stay

First-timers usually choose Osu, Cantonments, Airport Residential or Ridge for a central, calm base with easy access to restaurants. Labadi suits a beach-hotel stay. Budget travellers and backpackers often like guesthouses in Osu or the beach at Kokrobite. Diaspora visitors staying with family may be in the suburbs, so allow for traffic.

Getting around

Traffic is the biggest challenge. Ride apps such as Uber and Bolt work well and avoid haggling. Taxis are everywhere, but agree the fare before you get in. Trotros, the shared minibuses, are cheap and authentic, but routes take time to learn. Avoid planning more than two or three things in different parts of the city in one day.

Staying safe

Accra is generally relaxed, but phone snatching and pickpocketing happen in crowded markets and on busy streets, and beaches have strong currents. Use ride apps at night, keep your phone away from open car windows and leave valuables at your hotel.