Mole National Park: elephants on foot in Ghana's north

Why visit Mole

Mole is a very different Ghana from the coast. The landscape is open and dry, the villages are built of mud and thatch, and the pace is slow. The park covers a large area of savannah, and its population of several hundred elephants is the star. In the dry season they come down to the waterholes below the Mole Motel, and it is common to watch them from the pool terrace.

You will also see kob and other antelopes, warthogs grazing around the lodges, baboons, and a long list of birds. Lions are very rarely seen here, so set expectations accordingly: Mole is about relaxed, close-up encounters rather than ticking off big cats.

Walking and driving safaris

The park's signature experience is the guided walk. Armed rangers lead small groups out in the early morning and late afternoon, and walks usually last a couple of hours. Wear closed shoes and neutral colours, bring water and follow the ranger's instructions at all times. Vehicle safaris are also available, and some lodges run night drives. Book safaris at the park reception or through your lodge.

Larabanga and nearby villages

Just outside the park gate, Larabanga is famous for its whitewashed mud-and-stick mosque, built in the Sudano-Sahelian style and among the oldest in West Africa. It is a working mosque, and visitors are generally viewed from outside, so ask a local guide about the rules. Nearby is the Mystic Stone, which local legend says always returns to the roadside when moved.

Mognori Eco Village, on the park's edge, offers canoe safaris on the Mole River and village visits with drumming, dancing and shea butter making, run with the community.

When to go

The dry season, roughly December to April, is the best time to see animals, as they gather near water and vegetation thins. It is hot, and the harmattan wind can bring dusty haze around December and January. The wet season, roughly May to October, turns the park green and lovely, but wildlife spreads out and some tracks become hard to use.

Where to stay

Mole Motel sits inside the park on a ridge above the waterholes, simple but with an unbeatable view and a pool. Zaina Lodge offers a luxury safari experience with tented rooms. Budget options exist in Larabanga, where small guesthouses and homestays are run by local families.

Getting there

Most visitors fly from Accra to Tamale, about an hour, then travel by road to the park, around three hours on a road that has improved in recent years. Buses also run from Tamale toward Larabanga. Coming all the way by road from Kumasi is a long day. Organised trips and drivers can be arranged in Tamale.

Combining Mole with the north

Tamale, the main city of the north, is relaxed and friendly, with a central market selling shea butter, smocks and leather. Further north, Bolgatanga is known for woven baskets, and the crocodile pond at Paga and the painted homes of Sirigu make good stops. Check your government's travel advice before travelling to areas near the northern borders.

What to pack

Bring light, long-sleeved clothes in neutral colours for the walks, a hat, sunscreen, insect repellent and a refillable water bottle. Binoculars make a big difference for birds and antelopes. Malaria is present, so talk to a travel health clinic about tablets before you go.