Munich: a first-timer's guide to Bavaria's capital

Why go

Munich packs a lot of classic Germany into a compact centre. You can watch the Glockenspiel figures dance on Marienplatz, eat white sausages for breakfast, spend the afternoon in a world-class art gallery and the evening under chestnut trees in a beer garden. It is also one of the best bases in Germany for day trips, with castles, lakes, mountains and Salzburg all within reach by train.

The main sights

The old town centres on **Marienplatz**, with the neo-Gothic **New Town Hall** and its Glockenspiel. Nearby are the twin domes of the **Frauenkirche**, the **Viktualienmarkt** food market and **St Peter's Church**, whose tower gives a fine view over the rooftops. The **Residenz**, the former royal palace, is vast, with treasury rooms and a rococo theatre.

For art, the **Kunstareal** district holds the Alte Pinakothek with old masters, the Pinakothek der Moderne and the Lenbachhaus. The **Deutsches Museum**, one of the world's largest science and technology museums, sits on an island in the Isar. Car fans head to **BMW Welt** and the BMW Museum near the Olympic Park.

**Nymphenburg Palace**, the summer residence of the Bavarian royals, has grand rooms and huge gardens. The **English Garden** is one of the largest city parks in the world, with the Chinese Tower beer garden and surfers riding a standing wave on the Eisbach stream.

Beer gardens and beer halls

Beer gardens are Munich's great social institution. Traditionally you may bring your own food to the tables without tablecloths and buy only drinks. Favourites include the **Augustiner-Keller**, the **Hirschgarten** and the Chinese Tower. In the old town, the **Hofbräuhaus** is famous and touristy but fun, and the **Augustiner Bräustuben** near the Theresienwiese feels more local.

Oktoberfest

Oktoberfest runs for about two weeks from mid to late September into early October on the Theresienwiese. Entry is free, but hotels book up months ahead and become much more expensive, and tents fill quickly at weekends. Arrive early, go on a weekday if you can, and look after your belongings in the crowds.

Day trips

**Neuschwanstein Castle**, the fairytale palace of King Ludwig II, is about two hours away by train and bus via Füssen; book timed tickets well in advance. Other easy trips include **Lake Starnberg** and **Lake Tegernsee**, **Garmisch-Partenkirchen** for the Zugspitze, Germany's highest mountain, the medieval town of **Regensburg**, and **Salzburg** in Austria. The **Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site** is a short S-Bahn ride away and is an important, moving visit.

Food

Try **Weisswurst** with sweet mustard and a pretzel before noon, **Schweinshaxe** (roast pork knuckle), **Obatzda** cheese spread and **Kaiserschmarrn**, a shredded pancake. Vegetarians will find dumplings, cheese spaetzle and plenty of modern options.

Where to stay

The **Altstadt** puts you in the middle of everything. **Maxvorstadt** is close to the museums and university, **Schwabing** is leafy and lively, **Haidhausen** is quieter with good restaurants, and the area around the main station is convenient but less attractive. Prices rise sharply during Oktoberfest and big trade fairs.

Getting around

Munich's centre is walkable, and the U-Bahn, S-Bahn and trams cover the rest. A day ticket is good value if you make several trips, and the Deutschlandticket covers local transport too. The S-Bahn runs to the airport, and regional trains for the lakes and mountains leave from the Hauptbahnhof.