Svaneti: towers, glaciers and Ushguli

Why go

Svaneti feels like nowhere else in Europe. Snow peaks above four and five thousand metres, including Ushba and Shkhara, ring green valleys where stone towers rise from every village. Svans speak their own language alongside Georgian, sing ancient polyphonic songs and are famously proud of their independence. For walkers it is one of the finest trekking regions in the Caucasus.

Mestia

**Mestia** is the regional centre, a small town of towers and guesthouses that has grown quickly with tourism. Start at the **Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography**, where icons, manuscripts and church treasures hidden in Svan villages for safekeeping are beautifully displayed. Step inside a real tower at the **Margiani House Museum** or the **Mikheil Khergiani House Museum**, home of the legendary climber. **Seti Square** is the centre of town, with cafés such as **Cafe Laila**.

Day hikes

The **Chalaadi Glacier** is an easy, rewarding walk through forest to the foot of the ice. The climb to the **Koruldi Lakes**, high above town, is long and steep but gives famous reflections of Ushba; four by four taxis can shorten it. The **Hatsvali** chairlift gives views without the effort.

Ushguli

**Ushguli** is a cluster of villages at the head of the Enguri valley, often described as one of the highest permanently inhabited settlements in Europe. Its towers stand below the long white wall of **Shkhara**, Georgia's highest mountain. Walk up to the little **Lamaria Church**, and on to the Shkhara glacier if you have time. The road from Mestia takes around two to three hours by four by four, and is rough in places.

The Mestia to Ushguli trek

The classic **Mestia to Ushguli trek** takes about four days, walking village to village through Zhabeshi, Adishi and Iprari, and sleeping in family guesthouses. It involves a river crossing and a high pass, so check conditions locally, carry proper gear and consider a guide or horse for the crossing early in the season.

Winter

Svaneti has two ski areas, **Hatsvali** and **Tetnuldi**, with long runs and few crowds. Winter also brings **Lamproba**, a torch lit festival honouring ancestors. Roads can close after heavy snow, and avalanches are a real risk away from the pistes.

Getting there

Most people travel by marshrutka or shared taxi from **Zugdidi**, which is linked to Tbilisi by an overnight train, or directly from Kutaisi or Tbilisi on a long day. Small planes fly to **Mestia's Queen Tamar Airport** from Tbilisi and Natakhtari when weather allows, but flights are often cancelled, so keep a backup plan. The mountain road is winding, with steep drops and landslides after rain.

Practical tips

Carry cash: there are cash machines in Mestia but few elsewhere. Mobile signal is patchy in high villages. Guesthouses usually include dinner and breakfast, often with Svan specialities like **kubdari**, a spiced meat pie, and **tashmijabi**, cheesy mashed potato. Svan salt, a blend of salt and herbs, makes a great gift.

Use the places to visit list for hikes and stays, and the trip planner to fit Svaneti into a longer trip.