Kazbegi: Georgia's high Caucasus, made easy

Why go

Few places put you among serious mountains so easily. In three hours from the capital you climb from vineyards to alpine meadows, glaciers and stone villages, and from your guesthouse window you can watch clouds roll off a peak of more than five thousand metres. Short walks give big rewards, and longer hikes reach some of the finest scenery in the Caucasus.

The Georgian Military Road

The drive is half the experience. The historic **Georgian Military Road** heads north past **Ananuri Fortress** on the turquoise Zhinvali reservoir, climbs through the ski resort of **Gudauri** and the colourful **Friendship Monument** viewpoint over the Devil's Valley, and crosses the **Jvari Pass** before dropping into the Tergi valley. Stop for khinkali in **Pasanauri**, the village said to have invented them.

Gergeti Trinity Church

The fourteenth century **Gergeti Trinity Church** sits on a ridge above Stepantsminda. You can walk up in around one and a half to two hours on a steep trail, or ride up by road in a local four by four. Dress modestly: women are asked to cover their hair and wear a skirt, and wraps are usually provided. Come early in the morning for clear views of Kazbek before clouds build.

Hikes and valleys

For a bigger day, continue past the church towards the **Gergeti Glacier**; it is a long, high walk and should only be attempted in good weather with proper boots. The **Juta Valley**, reached by road from Sno, leads through meadows to the jagged **Chaukhi** peaks and is one of the best day hikes in the country. The **Truso Valley** is gentler, following a river past mineral springs, travertine terraces and abandoned villages; parts lie close to the South Ossetia boundary, so stay on the main track and respect any checkpoints. North of town, the **Gveleti Waterfall** and **Dariali Monastery** sit in a narrow gorge near the Russian border.

Where to stay

Stepantsminda has many family guesthouses, often with home cooked dinners, plus a few hotels including **Rooms Hotel Kazbegi**, whose terrace faces the mountain. In winter, many visitors stay in **Gudauri** for skiing and visit Kazbegi as a day trip.

Weather and safety

Mountain weather changes fast, even in summer, so carry layers and rain gear. The road over the Jvari Pass can close in winter storms and avalanche risk, sometimes for days; check conditions before you set out and allow a spare day if you have a flight to catch. The road is also the main truck route to Russia, so expect heavy lorries and queues near the border. Do not try to approach the border crossing unless you are actually crossing.

Getting there

Marshrutkas run from Didube station in Tbilisi to Stepantsminda. Shared taxis leave from the same area. Many people also book a driver who stops at the viewpoints on the way.

Food and comforts

Guesthouse dinners of khinkali, mountain cheese, lamb stew and homemade bread are a highlight. There are a few cafés and small shops in Stepantsminda, and a cash machine, but carry enough lari in case it is empty. Evenings are cool even in August, and heating matters from October to May, so check before you book.

Use the places to visit list for hikes and stays, and the trip planner to fit Kazbegi into your route.