Kakheti: Georgia's wine country, explained

Why go

Wine is woven into Georgian identity, and Kakheti is its heartland. Almost every village family makes its own, and a visit means sitting in cellars, tasting amber wines fermented on their skins, and eating at long tables with toasts led by a **tamada**, the toastmaster. Add medieval monasteries, a walled hill town and big mountain views, and it is easy to see why so many visitors call this their favourite part of the trip.

Sighnaghi

**Sighnaghi** is a small hill town of cobbled lanes and tiled roofs inside eighteenth century walls, with towers you can walk along for views over the Alazani valley. It is pretty, compact and well set up for visitors, with guesthouses, wine bars and restaurants such as **Pheasant's Tears**. Just below the town, **Bodbe Monastery** holds the grave of Saint Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia.

Telavi and the valley

**Telavi** is the regional capital, a working town with a lively bazaar and the palace of King Erekle II at **Batonis Tsikhe**. Around it lie the region's great monuments: the huge cathedral of **Alaverdi** among vineyards, the brick citadel of **Gremi**, the hilltop monastery of **Nekresi**, and the **Tsinandali Estate** of the poet prince Alexander Chavchavadze, with its gardens and old wine collection. Near Kvareli, the **Khareba** winery stores wine in a tunnel cut into the mountain.

Wine and food

Try **Rkatsiteli** and **Mtsvane** whites made the traditional way, which turn amber and taste dry and tannic, and **Saperavi**, the inky red grape. Larger wineries offer tours in English; small family cellars often give the more memorable welcome. Eat **mtsvadi** grilled over vine cuttings, **shoti** bread from round clay ovens and **churchkhela**, walnuts dipped in thickened grape juice. Many guesthouses cook dinner for their guests, and it is often the best meal of the trip.

David Gareja

In the semi-desert south, the cave monastery of **David Gareja** is cut into a ridge on the border with Azerbaijan. The main Lavra monastery is visited by many, but parts of the complex sit on or near the border line and access has been disputed, so follow local signs and check current advice before you go.

When to go

Late spring brings green vines and wildflowers. The **Rtveli** grape harvest, from mid September into October, is the most exciting time, with families picking and pressing grapes and visitors often welcome to join in. Summers are hot; winters are quiet but clear, with snow on the mountains behind the vines.

Getting there and around

Marshrutka minibuses run from Tbilisi to Sighnaghi and Telavi, taking around two hours. Between villages and cellars, public transport is thin, so most visitors book a local driver for the day or join a small group tour. Never drive after tasting: Georgia has strict drink driving rules.

Wine etiquette

Many cellars offer a tasting with bread, cheese and churchkhela. Ask before taking photos in family homes, and buy a bottle if you enjoyed the wine; it is the kindest thanks. Wineries often close for private events at weekends, so message ahead.

See our places to visit list for cellars, restaurants and stays, and use the trip planner to fit Kakheti into your route.