Trinidad: a first-timer's guide to Cuba's colonial jewel

The old town

The centre of Trinidad is a grid of cobbled streets lined with single storey houses painted in pastel colours, with tall barred windows and red tiled roofs. **Plaza Mayor** is the heart, overlooked by the Church of the Holy Trinity and surrounded by museums in former sugar barons' mansions. The **Museo Romántico** shows how the wealthy lived, and the yellow bell tower of the **Museo de la Lucha Contra Bandidos**, in a former convent, gives the best view over the rooftops. Wander without a plan: the side streets, with children playing baseball and neighbours chatting in doorways, are the real charm.

The cobbles are uneven, so wear sturdy shoes, and walk with care at night when lighting is poor.

Music every night

Trinidad has some of the best live music in Cuba. The **Casa de la Música** steps beside Plaza Mayor fill every evening with salsa and son bands and dancers of all ages. Nearby, the **Casa de la Trova** offers more traditional music in a courtyard, and the **Palenque de los Congos Reales** has Afro Cuban rumba and drumming. For something unusual, the **Disco Ayala** nightclub sits inside a cave on the hill above town.

Valley of the Sugar Mills

The **Valle de los Ingenios** stretches east of town, once home to dozens of sugar mills worked by enslaved Africans. Visit the **Manaca Iznaga** estate with its tall watchtower, used to keep watch over the enslaved workers, and learn about the human cost of the sugar boom. A tourist train has run through the valley in the past but is often out of service, so a taxi or tour is more reliable.

Playa Ancón

About twenty minutes by taxi or bicycle, **Playa Ancón** is a long beach of soft sand on the Caribbean coast, with calm water and snorkelling on the nearby reef. The fishing village of **La Boca**, on the way, has a smaller, more local beach and a few casas by the sea.

Topes de Collantes

In the Escambray Mountains above town, the **Topes de Collantes** park has forest trails, coffee farms and waterfalls. The **Salto del Caburní** hike is the best known, a steep walk down to a waterfall and pools where you can swim. Visit by taxi or tour, since there is no reliable public transport.

Food and where to stay

Trinidad has many paladares, from rooftop terraces to family dining rooms. Lobster, shrimp and grilled fish are common, as is the local cocktail, the canchánchara, made with aguardiente, honey and lime. Almost everyone stays in a casa particular in the old town, where hosts can arrange taxis, tours and onward buses.

Getting there

Viazul buses and colectivos connect Trinidad with Havana, Cienfuegos, Viñales and Santa Clara. Many travellers stop in Cienfuegos on the way from Havana.

Practical tips

Trinidad has many sellers offering rooms, horse rides and meals, so book through your casa or trusted sources. Power cuts are common, so keep a torch for the walk home on dark cobbles. Bring cash, since cards and ATMs are unreliable.