Varadero: a first-timer's guide to Cuba's beach peninsula

The beach

The beach is the reason to come. It runs almost the full length of the peninsula on the northern, Atlantic side, but the water is usually calm, shallow near the shore and a beautiful shade of blue. Public access is easy from the town end, and you can walk for hours along the sand. Winter fronts can bring wind and cooler water from December to February, and summer is hot and humid.

Resorts or the town

Most package visitors stay in **all inclusive resorts** on the eastern part of the peninsula, which run their own generators and water supplies and are the most insulated from shortages. Standards vary widely, and recent reviews matter more than the brochure, since food variety and maintenance have suffered during the economic crisis.

The **town of Varadero**, at the western end, is a grid of streets with casas particulares, small restaurants and local life. Staying here is cheaper, more personal and still steps from the same beach. It is a good choice for independent travellers who want to eat in paladares and meet Cubans.

Things to do

Beyond lying on the sand, you can dive or snorkel on the reefs and wrecks offshore, take a catamaran trip to the nearby cays, or visit **Parque Josone**, a landscaped park with a lake and old mansion in town. The **Mansión Xanadú**, built for the American industrialist Irénée du Pont, is now a hotel and bar with a terrace famous for sunset drinks. Near the tip of the peninsula, the **Varahicacos Ecological Reserve** has short trails and caves.

Day trips

The city of **Matanzas**, half an hour west, is known as the Athens of Cuba and the birthplace of rumba and danzón, with a historic theatre, a pharmacy museum and bridges over two rivers. The **Bellamar Caves** just outside are among the oldest show caves in the country. Further south, the **Bay of Pigs** offers excellent snorkelling at Punta Perdiz and Cueva de los Peces, the crocodile farm at Boca de Guamá and the museum of the 1961 invasion at Playa Girón. Havana is about two hours away for a day of sightseeing.

Getting there and around

International charter and scheduled flights land at Juan Gualberto Gómez airport, and Viazul buses and colectivos link Varadero with Havana and Trinidad. A tourist bus has run up and down the peninsula, and taxis, horse carts and rented bicycles fill the gaps.

Before you book

Read recent guest reviews closely, ask about backup power and water, bring sunscreen, medicines and toiletries, and carry cash for anything outside your resort.

Safety and comfort

Varadero is one of the safest areas of Cuba for visitors. Keep valuables in your room safe, use sunscreen and drink plenty of water, since the sun is strong all year. Mosquitoes can be busy at dusk, so pack a good repellent. Varadero is also a good final stop, since it is close to its own airport and two hours from Havana's.