Cienfuegos: a first-timer's guide to Cuba's Pearl of the South

Parque Martí and the centre

The city's main square, **Parque José Martí**, is one of the grandest in Cuba. Around it stand the cathedral, the domed government palace, the **Tomás Terry Theatre** with its painted ceiling and gilded boxes, and the **Palacio Ferrer**, whose rooftop tower gives a fine view over the square and the bay. A small triumphal arch, unique in Cuba, stands on the western side. The pedestrian boulevard, Avenida 54, runs off the square with shops and cafés.

The Prado and Malecón

The **Paseo del Prado** is a long avenue lined with colonnaded houses, and it leads to the city's seafront **Malecón**, where locals stroll, fish and sit on the wall at sunset. Horse drawn carriages and bicitaxis ply the route, an easy way to cover the distance.

Punta Gorda

At the end of the Malecón, the **Punta Gorda** peninsula has the city's most striking building, the **Palacio de Valle**, a fantasy of Moorish, Gothic and Venetian styles built in the early twentieth century. Its rooftop bar is a classic spot for a sunset drink. Nearby, the former Cienfuegos Yacht Club and old wooden villas line the water.

Around the bay

The **Bay of Cienfuegos** is one of the largest natural harbours in the Caribbean. Ferries and boats cross to the **Castillo de Jagua**, a seventeenth century fortress guarding the bay's entrance, though services depend on fuel. South of the city, **Rancho Luna** beach is a quiet spot for a swim.

El Nicho and the Botanical Garden

In the Escambray Mountains about ninety minutes away, **El Nicho** is a series of waterfalls and turquoise pools where you can swim, reached by a rough road best done by taxi or tour. Closer to town, the **Cienfuegos Botanical Garden** is one of the oldest in Cuba, with hundreds of palm species, founded in the early twentieth century by a sugar family together with Harvard University.

Music and evenings

Cienfuegos is the birthplace of Benny Moré, one of Cuba's greatest singers, and his statue stands on the Prado. Evenings are low key: a concert at the Terry Theatre if one is on, a drink on the Palacio de Valle roof, or dancing at the local trova house.

Where to stay and eat

Casas particulares in the centre or out on Punta Gorda are the usual choice, with the latter quieter and by the water. Paladares serve seafood and Cuban classics. Most visitors combine Cienfuegos with Trinidad, about ninety minutes further east.

Getting there and around

Viazul buses and colectivo taxis link Cienfuegos with Havana, Trinidad and Santa Clara, and the drive from Havana takes around four hours. In town, the centre is easy on foot, while horse carts and bicitaxis run along the Prado to Punta Gorda for a small fare.

Practical tips

Cienfuegos is one of the calmer, safer cities in Cuba, with fewer hustlers than Havana or Trinidad. Power cuts still happen, so ask your casa about backup power and carry a torch after dark.