At a glance
- Best for
- Beaches, boat days, nightlife and wine villages
- Nearest airport
- Split (SPU), then a ferry or catamaran
- Time needed
- Two to four days
- Best season
- June and September; lavender blooms in late June and early July
- Getting around
- Island buses, water taxis and walking
- Good base for
- The Pakleni islands, Vis, the Blue Cave and Korčula
Why go
Hvar lets you choose your mood. Stay in Hvar Town for beach clubs and late nights, or base yourself in Stari Grad or Jelsa for slower days of swimming, wine and village dinners. The light, the clear water and the scent of pine and lavender make it a highlight of any Croatian trip.
Hvar Town
The main square, **Pjaca**, is one of the largest in Dalmatia, framed by the **Cathedral of St Stephen** and the **Arsenal**, home to one of Europe's oldest public theatres. Climb to the **Fortica** (Spanish Fortress) for the classic view over the harbour and the islands. Evenings start with the promenade along the harbour and continue in bars and clubs, both in town and on the islands.
The Pakleni islands
Taxi boats leave the harbour for the **Pakleni islands**, a chain of wooded islets with coves and beach restaurants. **Palmižana** on Sveti Klement and **Jerolim** are popular; arrive early or go late to find a quieter spot.
Stari Grad and the plain
**Stari Grad** is one of the oldest towns in Europe, founded by Greek settlers. Its quiet harbour, **Tvrdalj** castle of the poet Petar Hektorović and the **Stari Grad Plain**, a landscape of stone walls and fields laid out by the Greeks and still farmed today, are UNESCO listed.
Villages and wine
**Jelsa** and **Vrboska**, with its little canals and bridges, are calm harbour villages on the north coast. Inland, abandoned and revived villages such as **Velo Grablje**, **Malo Grablje** and **Humac** feel frozen in time. Local wineries make **Plavac Mali** reds and **Bogdanjuša** whites; the south facing slopes above **Sveta Nedjelja** and **Ivan Dolac** are some of the steepest vineyards anywhere. **Dubovica** is one of the island's most beautiful beaches.
Lavender
Hvar was once famous for lavender, and fields still bloom around **Velo Grablje** and Brusje in late June and early July. Small bags of dried lavender and oils are sold everywhere.
Where to stay
**Hvar Town** for nightlife and boat trips, **Stari Grad** for the car ferry and a calm base, **Jelsa** or **Vrboska** for families and peace.
Getting there and around
Catamarans from Split reach Hvar Town in around an hour; car ferries go to Stari Grad. Catamarans also link Hvar with Korčula, Vis and Dubrovnik in season. Island buses connect the towns, timed to ferries.
Practical tips
Hvar Town enforces rules on public behaviour, such as no drinking in the street and dressing appropriately away from the beach, with fines for breaking them. Book stays early for summer, and treat August as very busy.
Food to try
Hvar cooking is simple and seasonal. Try **gregada**, a fish stew with potatoes and olive oil, **hvarska paprenjaci** pepper biscuits, lamb and octopus cooked under the **peka**, and the local olive oil and capers. Inland taverns in **Dol**, **Pitve** and **Humac** serve family recipes on terraces among vines and stone walls, often with their own wine. Many restaurants on Hvar close from late October to Easter, so check opening months if you travel outside summer, and book ahead in July and August, especially for sunset tables in Hvar Town.
If you have a spare day, take a boat to **Vis** or join a tour to the **Blue Cave** on Biševo.
Questions about Hvar
Is Hvar only a party island?
No. Hvar Town has a lively scene in summer, but Stari Grad, Jelsa, Vrboska and the inland villages are quiet and family friendly.
How long should I spend on Hvar?
Two nights is a good minimum, with three or four for beaches, a Pakleni islands day and the wine villages.
Where is the best beach on Hvar?
Dubovica, on the south coast, and the coves of the Pakleni islands are favourites. Most beaches are pebble or rock, so bring water shoes.
When does the lavender bloom on Hvar?
Usually from late June into early July, depending on the year.
Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.
