Cox's Bazar: the long beach on the Bay of Bengal

Why go

For a country of rivers and paddy fields, Cox's Bazar is the great escape to the sea. Families come from all over Bangladesh to paddle, ride horses on the sand and watch the sun drop into the Bay of Bengal. It is not a bikini and beach bar resort, but for a warm, uniquely Bangladeshi seaside experience it is hard to beat.

The beaches

The town beaches are named after their access points: **Laboni**, closest to town, **Sugandha**, the liveliest with its seafood stalls, and **Kolatoli**, lined with hotels. They get very crowded in the evenings and on holidays. For quieter sand, head south along the **Marine Drive** to **Himchari**, where forested hills meet the sea, and **Inani**, with coral stones and clearer water.

Swim only where lifeguards and flags show it is safe: rip currents are strong, especially at low tide and in the monsoon. Women usually swim fully clothed, as local women do.

Beyond the beach

**Ramu**, half an hour inland, has old Buddhist monasteries and a giant reclining Buddha, reflecting the Rakhine and Barua Buddhist communities of the region. **Maheshkhali Island**, a short boat trip across the channel, has the hilltop Adinath Temple, salt fields and fishing villages. In town, the **Burmese Market** sells Rakhine crafts and pickles.

**Saint Martin's Island**, the country's only coral island, is further south off Teknaf. Access is restricted to protect the reef, with seasonal opening and limits on visitor numbers, so check the current rules with the authorities before planning a trip.

Food

Seafood is the reason many people come. Choose fish, crab or prawns at evening stalls on Sugandha beach and have them fried on the spot, or sit down to Bengali fish curries and bhorta at long running restaurants such as Poushee and Jhawbon. Dried fish is a local speciality to take home.

Where to stay

Kolatoli has the biggest choice of hotels within walking distance of the beach. For a quieter stay, look south along the Marine Drive, where resorts at Pechar Dwip and Inani sit on emptier sand. Book well ahead for winter weekends and Eid holidays, when the town fills.

Getting there

Flights from Dhaka take about an hour and are the easiest option. The railway line from Chattogram now reaches Cox's Bazar, with direct trains from Dhaka; check timetables on the official Bangladesh Railway site. Overnight buses also run from Dhaka.

Safety and travel advice

The Rohingya refugee camps lie south of Cox's Bazar around Ukhiya and Teknaf. Some governments advise extra caution or permits in these areas, and the border with Myanmar should be avoided. Read your government's current advice before travelling south of Inani. In town, the main concerns are the sea, traffic on the Marine Drive and crowds.

A suggested plan

Arrive by an afternoon flight and head straight to Sugandha or Laboni for your first sunset and a seafood dinner. Next morning, ride the Marine Drive south with stops at Himchari's viewpoint and Inani's coral stones, returning for a swim near the lifeguard flags. On a third day, visit the temples of Ramu in the morning and take a boat across to Maheshkhali for the Adinath Temple and salt fields. Early mornings are the best time on the beach, when fishermen haul in their nets and the sand is almost empty.

Seasons

The cool dry months from November to March bring calm seas and sunshine. Spring is hot, and the monsoon from June to September brings big waves, heavy rain and occasional cyclone warnings; follow local instructions if a signal is raised.