Mazar-i-Sharif: the Blue Mosque and ancient Balkh

Why visit Mazar-i-Sharif

Mazar is the main city of the north, a flat, busy trading town on the plains that run towards Uzbekistan. It is the place to see the Blue Mosque, to visit Balkh, once called the mother of cities, and to watch buzkashi in winter. It lies under the same official advice against all travel as the rest of the country, and the Blue Mosque area has been targeted by attacks in the past, so go with care.

The Blue Mosque

The Shrine of Hazrat Ali, known as the Blue Mosque, is covered in blue and turquoise tiles that glow in the low afternoon light. Its courtyard is famous for its flocks of white pigeons; local belief holds that any grey pigeon turns white within weeks of arriving. Non-Muslims are usually welcome in the courtyard but may not be allowed inside the shrine itself. Dress modestly, remove shoes where asked and follow the rules on photography.

Nowruz and Mela-e Gul-e Surkh

The Persian New Year, Nowruz, around 21 March, was traditionally celebrated with the raising of the Janda banner at the Blue Mosque and the red tulip festival on the hills outside the city. The current authorities discourage Nowruz celebrations, so check what is taking place before you plan around it.

Ancient Balkh

Twenty kilometres west, Balkh was a great city long before Islam: Zoroaster is said to have preached here, Alexander the Great married Roxana here, and the poet Rumi was born here. Today you can see the vast earthen walls of the Bala Hisar, the fluted dome of the Green Mosque of Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa, and the shrine of the poet Rabia Balkhi. Outside the town, the Noh Gonbad mosque, one of the oldest in Afghanistan, has carved stucco columns.

Buzkashi

Buzkashi, the horseback game in which riders fight over the carcass of a goat, is the national sport of Afghanistan and the north is its heartland. Games take place on winter Fridays on open ground around Mazar. They are chaotic and exciting; keep well back from the horses.

Samangan and the road south

On the road towards Kabul, Takht-e Rustam near Samangan is a Buddhist stupa carved down into solid rock, with cave monasteries alongside. The highway continues over the Hindu Kush through the Salang tunnel, but most visitors fly between Mazar and Kabul.

When to go and how to dress

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons; summers are very hot and dusty, and winters cold. Dress modestly at all times, especially near the shrine. Men should wear long trousers and long sleeves, and women should cover hair, arms and legs with loose clothing.

Staying safe

Avoid crowds at the shrine on Fridays and religious holidays, and keep your visit short and low key. Follow your guide's advice on which routes and areas to avoid.

Food and bazaars

The bazaars around the Blue Mosque sell carpets from Turkmen and Uzbek weavers, karakul hats, Afghan coats and dried fruit. The north is known for its melons in late summer, its kebabs and its Uzbek style palao. Browse our places to visit for more and use the free trip planner to plan your days.