Herat: Afghanistan's city of poets and tiled domes

Why visit Herat

Herat feels different from Kabul. It is flatter, greener and more relaxed, with pine lined avenues, glassblowers and carpet weavers, and a strong sense of pride in its Persian heritage. Many travellers call it the highlight of Afghanistan. Like every part of the country, it sits under government advice against all travel, and the region was hit by deadly earthquakes in October 2023, so check current conditions first.

The Friday Mosque

The Masjid-e Jami, Herat's Friday Mosque, is one of the great buildings of the Islamic world. Founded in the twelfth century and rebuilt under the Timurids, it is covered in blue, turquoise and white tile mosaic. A workshop beside the mosque still makes tiles by hand to repair the walls, and visitors can sometimes watch the craftsmen. Visit outside prayer times, dress modestly and remove your shoes where asked.

The citadel

The Qala Ikhtiyaruddin, often simply called the citadel, rises over the old city on foundations said to date back to Alexander the Great. It was restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture and holds a small museum. From its ramparts you see the whole city spread out below.

The Musalla complex and Gawhar Shad

In the north of the city, a handful of tall, leaning minarets is all that remains of the Musalla complex built by Queen Gawhar Shad in the fifteenth century. Much was demolished in 1885 and damaged since, and the minarets are fragile. Gawhar Shad's own mausoleum, with its ribbed dome, stands nearby in a quiet garden.

Gazargah and the shrines

East of the city, the shrine of the Sufi poet Khwaja Abdullah Ansari at Gazargah is a place of pilgrimage, with a carved marble tomb and a peaceful courtyard. The tomb of the poet Jami and the Shahzadeh Abdullah shrine are other quiet stops. Shrines are active places of worship, so be respectful and follow local custom.

The old city and bazaars

The old city around the Chahar Su crossing still has covered bazaars, a restored domed cistern and caravanserais. Look for Herati glass in deep blue and green, handwoven carpets, silk scarves and embroidered caps. Bargaining is normal and friendly.

Further afield

Beyond the city, the Pul-e Malan bridge crosses the Hari Rud, and far to the east in Ghor province stands the Minaret of Jam, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in a remote gorge reached only by long, rough roads. That journey needs serious planning and local expertise.

When to go and what to wear

Spring brings green fields and mild days, and autumn is crisp and clear. Dress conservatively: long, loose clothes for everyone, and full covering with a headscarf or more for women. Herat has a reputation for strict enforcement of dress rules, so follow local guidance closely.

Food and getting around

Herat is known for its kebabs, Herati palao and sweet saffron dishes, and for dried fruit and pistachios from the surrounding province. Taxis are cheap and plentiful, but most visitors arrange a driver through their hotel or guide. Domestic flights link Herat with Kabul in about an hour and a half. Browse places to visit for specific sights and use the free trip planner to fit Herat into a route.