The Fann Mountains: lakes, treks and Penjikent

Why visit the Fann Mountains

The Fanns pack an extraordinary amount into a small area: peaks over five thousand metres, lakes in shades from emerald to milky blue, meadows, juniper forest and old villages of stone and mud. Unlike the Pamirs, no special regional permit is needed, and the range is within a day's drive of Dushanbe or a short hop from the Uzbek border near Samarkand.

Iskanderkul

Iskanderkul is a glacial lake at around two thousand two hundred metres, linked by legend to Alexander the Great, whose horse Bucephalus is said to have drowned here. A short walk leads to a thundering waterfall known as the Fan Niagara, and nearby Zmeinoe lake is known for its harmless water snakes. A simple tourist base and homestays in nearby villages make an overnight stay easy.

The Seven Lakes

Haft Kul, the Seven Lakes, is a chain of lakes climbing a narrow valley above Penjikent. Each has a different colour, and the road passes villages such as Shing and Nofin, where families offer homestay rooms. Many visitors drive to the upper lakes and walk back down, or spend a night at Marguzor, the highest and quietest.

Trekking

The heart of the range is for walkers. The classic routes link Alauddin lakes, Kulikalon lakes, Bolshoi Allo and the Chimtarga pass, with nights in tents or simple camps such as Artush. Day hikes from Alauddin give a taste without a full trek. Paths are not always marked, weather changes fast and passes reach high altitude, so hire a local guide for multi-day routes and acclimatise before going high.

Penjikent

Penjikent sits on the Zeravshan river near the Uzbek border. Just outside the modern town lie the excavated ruins of Ancient Penjikent, a Sogdian city of temples and houses famous for its wall paintings, many of which are now in the town museum and in Saint Petersburg. Sarazm, a UNESCO-listed settlement more than five thousand years old, is a short drive west. The bazaar is a fine place for apricots, nuts and honey, and the mausoleum of the poet Rudaki lies in Panjrud village up the valley.

Getting there and around

Shared taxis run from Dushanbe through the Anzob tunnel to Ayni and Penjikent, and many visitors hire a driver for a few days to link Iskanderkul, the Seven Lakes and Penjikent. The road is paved but mountainous, with long tunnels. Penjikent is also close to the border crossing towards Samarkand when it is open to foreigners, so check current status before planning a crossing.

Where to stay

Penjikent has small hotels and guesthouses. In the mountains, expect family homestays with shared bathrooms, simple meals and warm welcomes, plus basic lakeside cabins at Iskanderkul and camps for trekkers. Bring cash, a warm layer and a torch.

Practical tips

Summer is the season: from June to September the lakes are reachable and the passes open, while snow closes high routes the rest of the year. Days are hot and nights cold. Carry water treatment, sun protection and some snacks, as village shops are small. To fit the Fanns into a wider route, use the free trip planner.