Khujand: Tajikistan's Silk Road north

Why visit Khujand

Khujand feels different from Dushanbe: older, more commercial and closely tied to the Fergana valley and to Uzbekistan. It was known in Soviet times as Leninabad and has long been one of the country's richest regions. For travellers it makes a gentle stop between the Fann Mountains and Tashkent, or a city break in its own right.

Top things to do

Start at Panjshanbe Bazaar, whose name means Thursday. Its pastel hall with arched windows is packed with dried fruit, nuts, spices, bread and sweets, and the stalls outside spill across the square. Facing it, the Sheikh Muslihiddin mosque and mausoleum has carved wooden columns and a peaceful courtyard, the spiritual heart of the old town.

On the river, the rebuilt walls of Khujand fortress house the Historical Museum of Sughd, which tells the story of the city from Alexander's era through the Silk Road to the Soviet years. Walk the Syr Darya embankment at sunset, when families stroll and teahouses fill. Kamol Khujandi park honours the medieval poet, and Arbob Palace, just outside the city, is a grand Soviet palace of culture in landscaped grounds, worth a visit for its scale and history.

In summer, the Kairakkum reservoir east of the city, locally called the Tajik Sea, has beaches and lakeside resorts where families swim and picnic.

Istaravshan

About an hour south on the road to Dushanbe, Istaravshan is one of the oldest towns in Tajikistan. Climb the hill of Mug Teppe, the site of an ancient citadel, then explore the old town of narrow lanes, carved doors and family workshops. The Kok Gumbaz mosque and madrasa has a blue dome from the Timurid era, and the bazaar is famous for hand-forged knives.

Food

The north is known for its plov, cooked in huge pots at lunchtime, and for excellent fruit, especially apricots, melons and grapes. Bazaar food stalls sell samsa and fresh non bread, and teahouses along the river serve green tea on raised tapchan platforms.

Getting there and around

Khujand has an airport with domestic flights to Dushanbe and some international routes. The road from Dushanbe crosses the Anzob and Shahristan passes through long tunnels and takes most of a day by shared taxi. The Oybek border crossing to Tashkent is close by. In the city, taxis are cheap and plentiful and the centre is walkable.

Safety and tips

Khujand is calm and welcoming. Some areas to the southwest, around Isfara and the enclave of Vorukh near the Kyrgyz border, have seen border clashes in recent years, and several governments advise against travel there, so check current advice. Bring cash in somoni, dress modestly at the mosque, and ask before photographing people in the bazaar. Use the free trip planner to fit Khujand into your route.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons, with mild days and fruit in the bazaar. Summer is hot, often well above thirty degrees, which is when families from across the region head to the Kairakkum shore to swim. Winters are cold but rarely severe, and the bazaar stays busy all year. Navruz in March brings music and celebrations to the city's parks.