Praslin: palm forests and Seychelles' finest beaches

Why go to Praslin

If Mahé is the busy island, Praslin is where the holiday slows down. It has fewer people, quieter roads and a string of bays that range from long family beaches to secret coves. A few nights here usually become the highlight of a Seychelles trip.

Vallée de Mai

The **Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve** is the reason many people come. It is a valley of ancient palm forest where all six of the islands' endemic palms grow, including the coco de mer, whose huge double nut is the heaviest seed in the plant kingdom. The forest is dim, cool and full of the rattle of giant fronds. Listen for the whistle of the rare black parrot, found only on Praslin. Marked trails take from one to three hours. The reserve is run by the Seychelles Islands Foundation; go early to beat the tour groups and check opening times and entry details on its site.

The smaller **Fond Ferdinand Nature Reserve** in the south of the island has coco de mer too, with guided walks to a viewpoint over the island and far fewer visitors.

The beaches

**Anse Lazio** in the north west is the postcard: powdery sand, granite boulders at both ends and clear water that is good for swimming and snorkelling in calm seas. Rare shark incidents occurred here in 2011, and nets and lifeguards have since been introduced at times, so follow local guidance. **Anse Georgette**, reached through the grounds of a resort, is wild and quiet; access is limited and it is wise to ask the resort in advance. **Côte d'Or** (Anse Volbert) on the east coast is long, shallow and calm, lined with guesthouses and restaurants, and the most practical base. **Anse Possession**, **Anse Takamaka** and **Grand Anse** are quieter alternatives.

Island trips

Boats from Côte d'Or and Anse Possession run to **Curieuse Island**, a marine national park with free-roaming giant tortoises, a mangrove boardwalk and the ruins of an old leper colony. Combined trips add snorkelling at **St Pierre**, a tiny islet off Côte d'Or. Further out, **Aride Island** and **Cousin Island** are bird reserves with huge seabird colonies; landings depend on season and sea state.

Getting there and around

**Cat Cocos** fast ferries run from Victoria to Baie Ste Anne on Praslin several times a day, taking about an hour. Air Seychelles flies short hops between Mahé and Praslin Island Airport through the day. On the island, public buses circle most of the coast and cross the Vallée de Mai road; taxis are plentiful. La Digue is a fifteen minute ferry ride from Baie Ste Anne.

Where to stay

Praslin has everything from small self-catering cottages and family guesthouses to some of the country's top resorts. Côte d'Or and Anse Volbert are best for first-timers, with beaches, shops and restaurants close together. Grand Anse on the west coast is quieter and handy for the airport.

Food

Look for creole takeaways on the main roads for lunch, and beachfront restaurants at Côte d'Or for grilled fish and sunset dinners. Smaller shops are well stocked for self-catering.

Tips for a smooth visit

Bring cash for buses and small shops, as card machines are not universal. Seaweed can wash up on some beaches in the trade wind season, so choose your beach with the wind. Pack insect repellent for the forest and the evenings. If you plan to visit La Digue, a day trip from Praslin is easy.