Victoria: a first-timer's guide to the Seychelles capital

Why Victoria is worth a visit

Most visitors to Seychelles spend their days on beaches, and it is easy to miss how Seychellois actually live. Victoria is where the islands come to shop, work and catch the bus. It is small, friendly and relaxed, and a few hours here give you the market, the history and the food that a resort cannot.

The main sights

Start at the **Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market** on Market Street, a covered market of fish, fruit, vegetables, spices and souvenirs. Come early, especially on Saturday, when fishermen bring in red snapper, jobfish and tuna and the whole town seems to pass through. Upstairs are small cafés and craft stalls.

A short walk away stands the **Clock Tower**, a small silver replica of the Little Ben in London, put up in 1903 when Seychelles became a separate British colony. It is the town's meeting point. Nearby, the **Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple** on Quincy Street is the only Hindu temple in the country, with a richly carved and painted tower. The **Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception** and the Anglican **St Paul's Cathedral** sit within a few minutes of each other.

For history, the **National Museum of History** in the old Supreme Court building tells the story of the islands from the first settlers in 1770, and the **Natural History Museum** has displays on the coco de mer and local wildlife. **Kenwyn House**, a restored colonial mansion, houses a craft and art shop.

On the southern edge of town, the **National Botanical Garden** (Mont Fleuri) is a peaceful hour among palms, orchids and spice trees, with a pen of Aldabra giant tortoises and fruit bats hanging in the trees.

Food in Victoria

Victoria is the cheapest place on Mahé to eat well. Takeaway counters around the market and Albert Street serve creole curries, grilled fish, rice, lentils and chutneys in generous boxes. Try fish curry with coconut, octopus curry, smoked fish salad and fresh juice from the market. For a sit-down meal, a handful of cafés and small restaurants serve creole, Indian and Chinese dishes.

Getting there and around

Victoria is the hub of the Mahé bus network, and buses from almost every village end at the main bus terminal on Palm Street. Buses are cheap and frequent in daytime but slow and crowded at rush hour. Taxis wait near the market and the Clock Tower. The **Inter Island Quay**, where ferries leave for Praslin and La Digue, is a short walk or taxi ride from the centre. From the airport, about ten kilometres south, the drive takes around twenty minutes outside peak traffic.

Where to stay

Few holidaymakers sleep in Victoria itself, since the beaches are elsewhere and the town is quiet in the evening. Guesthouses in the hills above town, at Bel Air, Mont Fleuri or Sans Souci, are handy for early ferries and cooler at night. Most people base themselves at Beau Vallon or on the south and west coasts and visit Victoria for a morning.

Day trips from Victoria

Boats to **Sainte Anne Marine National Park**, a group of islands just offshore, leave from the Eden Island and Victoria waterfronts for snorkelling and glass-bottom trips. The road up through the hills to the **Mission Ruins** and **Morne Blanc** starts on the edge of town, as does the climb towards Morne Seychellois.

Tips for a smooth visit

Go on a weekday or Saturday morning, because many shops shut at lunchtime on Saturday and almost everything is closed on Sunday. Carry rupees in small notes for the market and buses. Dress modestly in the temple and cathedrals. The pavements are narrow and the drains are deep, so watch your step.