Belgrade: a first-timer's guide to Serbia's capital

Why go

Belgrade is not a pretty postcard city in the way Prague or Vienna are. Its charm is energy: people are out until late, food is generous and good value, and the history is everywhere if you look. It is easy to walk the centre, English is common among younger people, and it makes a natural base for day trips to Novi Sad, Zemun and the monasteries.

Top things to do

• **Kalemegdan Fortress**: walls, gates, the Victor monument and the best sunset view in the city, where the Sava joins the Danube. The park is free to wander.
• **Knez Mihailova and Republic Square**: the pedestrian spine of the old town, linking the fortress to the National Museum and the National Theatre.
• **Skadarlija**: a cobbled bohemian lane of old kafanas with live starogradska music, best for a long dinner.
• **Temple of Saint Sava**: one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, with a dazzling gold mosaic crypt and main dome.
• **Museum of Yugoslavia**: the House of Flowers, Tito's resting place, and the clearest introduction to the country that came before.
• **Nikola Tesla Museum**: small but loved, with working demonstrations and the inventor's ashes.
• **Zemun**: once a separate Habsburg town, now a riverside quarter with fish restaurants and the Gardoš Tower above red roofs.
• **Ada Ciganlija**: a river island turned lake beach where locals swim, cycle and play all summer.

Neighbourhoods and where to stay

**Old Town (Stari Grad)** puts you close to the fortress and the pedestrian streets. **Dorćol**, just below, is the coolest base, with cafés, bakeries, wine bars and quiet streets. **Vračar**, around the Temple of Saint Sava, is residential and leafy with excellent restaurants. **Savamala**, by the Sava, has the creative venues and is close to the main bus area. New Belgrade (Novi Beograd) across the river has business hotels, the big Block 70 Chinese market area and Ušće park.

Food and drink

Try ćevapi and pljeskavica from a grill, burek with yoghurt for breakfast, sarma in winter and karađorđeva šnicla in a traditional kafana. Belgrade's coffee scene is strong, and craft beer, Serbian wine and rakija bars are easy to find. Markets like Zeleni Venac and Kalenić show everyday life and sell cheese, kajmak, ajvar and fruit.

Nightlife

Belgrade's reputation is deserved. In summer the splavovi, floating clubs moored on the Sava and Danube, run late. In winter the action moves indoors to Cetinjska street, Dorćol Platz, KC Grad and clubs around Savamala. Many venues fill after midnight. Keep valuables close and use ride apps home.

Getting around

The centre is walkable, though hilly. Buses, trams and trolleybuses cover the city and public transport is free for passengers within Belgrade, though rules can change, so check locally. Avoid hailing taxis on the street, especially at the airport and bus station: use the official taxi voucher desk at the airport or a ride app such as Yandex Go, CarGo or Pink Taxi. The airport is linked to the centre by the A1 shuttle bus and city buses.

Day trips

Novi Sad and Sremski Karlovci are an easy day by fast train. Avala Tower rises on a hill just south of the city. Smederevo Fortress is about an hour down the Danube, and the monastery town of Topola and Oplenac church make a good half day in Šumadija.

Plan it

Pick restaurants, bars and sights from our places to visit list and shape your route with the free trip planner.