Novi Sad: Petrovaradin, EXIT and the Danube's gentle side

Why go

Novi Sad is the easy, gentle counterpart to Belgrade, and since the fast train cut the journey to well under an hour, it is simple to visit as a day trip or, better, for two nights. Its old centre is compact and pedestrian, the riverside is lovely on summer evenings, and Sremski Karlovci and Fruška Gora are a short bus ride away.

Top things to do

• **Petrovaradin Fortress**: the vast eighteenth century Habsburg fortress across the river, with its clock whose hands are reversed so boatmen could read the hour, tunnels, galleries and wide views of the city.
• **Old town**: Liberty Square, the neo Gothic Name of Mary Church, Zmaj Jovina and Dunavska streets, and the small, quiet Danube Park.
• **Strand**: one of the best known river beaches on the Danube, busy and fun in summer.
• **Museums**: the Gallery of Matica Srpska has a fine collection of Serbian art, and the Museum of Vojvodina tells the region's long story.
• **Synagogue**: a striking early twentieth century building, used as a concert venue.
• **Cycling the Danube**: the EuroVelo 6 route runs along the river and the flat streets make bikes easy.

EXIT festival

Every July, EXIT turns Petrovaradin Fortress into one of Europe's best known music festivals, with big international names across many stages until dawn. Accommodation fills months ahead, so book early or stay in Belgrade and use the train. Check the official site for dates, as the festival's plans have changed in recent years.

Sremski Karlovci and Fruška Gora

Twenty minutes away, Sremski Karlovci is a small baroque town of churches, a seminary, a famous fountain and family wineries. Try bermet, a sweet spiced wine local to the area, and visit the Živanović beekeeping museum. Behind it, Fruška Gora National Park is a low forested ridge dotted with Orthodox monasteries such as Krušedol and Novo Hopovo, hiking paths, vineyards and salaš farmhouses serving long country lunches.

Food and drink

Vojvodina cooking shows Hungarian and Central European influence: fish paprikash, goulash, strudel and generous salaš lunches of roast meats and homemade bread. Laze Telečkog street is lined with bars, and the riverfront fills with terraces in summer.

Where to stay

The old town is best for walking everywhere. Petrovaradin's lower town, under the fortress, is atmospheric and quiet. For EXIT, any central apartment within walking distance of the bridges works well.

Getting there and around

Fast trains run frequently between Belgrade Centre and Novi Sad, and some continue to Subotica and the Hungarian border. Buses link Novi Sad to Sremski Karlovci and Fruška Gora villages. The centre is easy on foot or by bike.

A perfect day

Start with coffee on Dunavska street and a walk through Danube Park. Cross the Varadin Bridge to Petrovaradin, climb to the clock tower and explore the galleries and artists' studios in the upper fortress. Have lunch in the lower town, then take the bus to Sremski Karlovci for the Patriarchate, the Four Lions fountain and a wine tasting. Back in the city, watch the sunset from the fortress walls and finish with dinner and drinks around Laze Telečkog.

Good to know

Novi Sad is very bike friendly, and rental bikes and scooters are common. Some museums close on Mondays. In summer, mosquitoes can be a nuisance near the river at dusk, so bring repellent. Out of season the city is quiet and gentle, a good contrast to Belgrade.

Plan it

Find kafanas, wineries and stays on our places to visit list and build your route in the free trip planner.