Zlatibor and Tara: mountains, heritage railways and the Drina

Why go

This is where Serbians go to breathe. Summers are cool and green, autumns are golden, and winter brings snow and sledging. The food is hearty, with famous dried meats, cheeses and kajmak from the villages, and the area suits families, walkers and anyone who wants to slow down after Belgrade.

Zlatibor highlights

• **Zlatibor town (Kraljeve Vode)**: the resort centre around a small lake, with cafés, market stalls selling pršuta and cheese, and walking paths.
• **Gold Gondola**: one of the longest panoramic gondolas in the world, carrying visitors from the town over the plateau to Tornik, the ski area.
• **Sirogojno**: an open air museum of traditional wooden houses, also known for hand knitted woollen sweaters.
• **Stopića Cave**: a cave with remarkable stepped pools of water, called bigrene kade.
• **Gostilje Waterfall**: a pretty waterfall in a green valley, good for a short walk.
• **Uvac Special Nature Reserve**: an hour or so south east, a winding river canyon with meanders seen from viewpoints and a colony of griffon vultures. Boat trips and the Ledena Pećina ice cave run in season.

Mokra Gora

Between Zlatibor and Tara, **Mokra Gora** is home to the **Šargan Eight**, a narrow gauge heritage railway that loops in a figure of eight through tunnels and bridges to climb the mountain. Above the station sits **Drvengrad**, also called Küstendorf, a wooden village built by director Emir Kusturica, with a church, cinema and restaurants. Check train timetables in advance, as they vary by season.

Tara National Park

Tara is one of Serbia's finest protected areas, with forests of spruce, fir and beech, brown bears, and the endemic Serbian spruce. **Banjska Stena** viewpoint looks straight down into the Drina canyon, and **Vidikovac Biljeska Stena** and the Zaovine and Perućac lakes are close. In **Bajina Bašta**, the tiny **Drina river house**, built on a rock in the middle of the river, is one of Serbia's most photographed sights. Rafting on the Drina is popular in summer.

Food

Look for Zlatiborska pršuta (dried ham), dried beef, komplet lepinja (a bread filled with kajmak and egg), proja cornbread, cheese pies and lamb roasted under a sač bell. Village restaurants and farm stays serve big, homely meals.

Where to stay

Zlatibor town has the widest choice of hotels and apartments. Mokra Gora and Drvengrad suit a quieter stay near the railway. In Tara, Kaluđerske Bare and the villages around Zaovine have mountain hotels and rural guesthouses.

Getting around

Buses run from Belgrade to Zlatibor and to Bajina Bašta, but to reach viewpoints, caves and the railway you will want a car or a local day tour. Mountain roads are narrow and winding, so allow extra time.

A sample three days

Day one: settle in Zlatibor town, ride the Gold Gondola and walk around the lake at sunset. Day two: drive to Mokra Gora for the Šargan Eight and lunch at Drvengrad, then continue into Tara for the Banjska Stena viewpoint. Day three: visit the Drina river house in Bajina Bašta, swim or raft in summer, and stop at Sirogojno and Stopića Cave on the way back.

Good to know

Weather changes quickly in the mountains, so pack layers even in summer. Mobile signal can be patchy in Tara. Some viewpoints are reached on unpaved forest roads, so drive slowly and ask at the park visitor centre about current conditions.

Plan it

Choose caves, viewpoints, farm restaurants and stays from our places to visit list, then link them up in the free trip planner.