Niš: Roman emperors, a stone fortress and southern grills

Why go

Niš sits at a crossroads that armies and traders have used for two thousand years, and its sights tell that story: Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and twentieth century history packed into one walkable city. It is also a useful air gateway, with flights from several European cities, and a good stop between Belgrade and North Macedonia or Bulgaria.

Top things to do

• **Niš Fortress**: an eighteenth century Ottoman fortress in the city centre with a grand Stambol Gate, a hammam, a mosque now used as a gallery, Roman remains and leafy paths. It hosts summer concerts and the Nišville festival.
• **Skull Tower (Ćele Kula)**: a tower built by Ottoman forces in 1809 using the skulls of Serbian rebels after the Battle of Čegar. Today a chapel surrounds the remaining skulls. It is moving, so prepare children first.
• **Mediana**: the remains of a late Roman imperial villa complex on the edge of town, with mosaics under a protective structure.
• **Red Cross Concentration Camp**: one of the best preserved Nazi camps in Europe, now a memorial museum. Bubanj memorial park nearby marks mass executions.
• **Kazandžijsko sokače**: the old coppersmiths' lane, now packed with cafés and bars.
• **Obrenovićeva street**: the pedestrian main street, busy every evening.

Food

Southern Serbia is the heartland of roštilj, the mixed grill. Order pljeskavica, ćevapi, uštipci and sausages with lepinja bread, onions and urnebes, a spicy cheese spread. Niš burek is a point of local pride, best eaten early in the morning. The city's kafanas often have live music on weekends.

Nišville and events

Nišville International Jazz Festival takes over the fortress each August with jazz, soul, funk and world music. Filmski susreti, a festival of Serbian film actors, runs in late summer too. Check dates on the city tourism pages.

Day trips

**Sićevo Gorge**, a limestone canyon of the Nišava river, is good for walking, cycling and climbing. **Niška Banja**, a spa town ten kilometres away, has thermal waters and a park. Further afield, the Roman palace of **Felix Romuliana** at Gamzigrad, a UNESCO World Heritage site, makes a strong day out, as does the striking rock formation of Đavolja Varoš, Devil's Town, in the south.

Where to stay

Stay in the centre, near the fortress and Obrenovićeva street, so you can walk everywhere. Most hotels and apartments are small and good value.

Getting there and around

Buses from Belgrade take around three hours on the motorway and run often. Trains exist but are slow. The airport is close to the centre and the city itself is compact and walkable.

A perfect day

Begin with burek and yoghurt from a bakery near the centre, then walk through the Stambol Gate into the fortress. Mid morning, take a short taxi to the Skull Tower and on to Mediana. After lunch, visit the Red Cross camp memorial, then rest in a café on Kazandžijsko sokače. In the evening, stroll Obrenovićeva with everyone else and end with a grill dinner and live music in a kafana.

Good to know

Niš is warm in summer and some sights have limited shade, so go early. Cash is useful in bakeries and small grills. The city is a good stop on the road south to Skopje or east to Sofia.

Plan it

Pick grills, cafés and sights from our places to visit list and plan the route in the free trip planner.