The south coast: Pico Cão Grande, Porto Alegre and Rolas

Why go

The drive south is a journey in itself. The road leaves the capital along the east coast, passing the vast ruined plantation of **Roça Água Izé** and the blowhole of **Boca do Inferno**, then winds through **São João dos Angolares**, a town at the heart of the Angolar community, said to descend from Angolan people who escaped a shipwreck centuries ago. Further on, the forest closes in and the first view of **Pico Cão Grande** appears, a volcanic plug rising hundreds of metres straight out of the trees.

The highlights

**Pico Cão Grande** is best seen from viewpoints along the road between Ribeira Peixe and Porto Alegre, and from the old oil palm plantation areas nearby. Climbing it is for expert rock climbers only, but simply standing beneath it is unforgettable.

**Praia Jalé** is a wild beach where turtles nest from roughly October to March. A small eco lodge works with the conservation programme, so you can stay in simple huts and join night patrols. **Praia Piscina** has a natural rock pool for calm swimming, and **Praia Inhame** and **Praia Grande** are long, palm-lined beaches near the end of the road.

At **Porto Alegre**, the southernmost village, boats cross to **Ilhéu das Rolas** in a few minutes. On the islet, a path leads to the **Equator monument**, a mosaic world map set exactly on the line, and on to wild cliffs and a blowhole. A resort occupies part of the island, but you can visit as a day trip.

São João dos Angolares

On the way south, **Roça São João dos Angolares** is a restored plantation house run by the celebrated Santomean chef and artist João Carlos Silva. Long, many course lunches made with island ingredients are served on the veranda overlooking the bay, and there are simple rooms. It is a highlight for food lovers, and booking ahead is wise.

Where to stay

Choose between the resort on Ilhéu das Rolas, small eco lodges at Praia Inhame and Praia Jalé, and the rooms at São João dos Angolares. All are simple compared with the capital, with limited electricity in places and patchy phone signal.

Getting there

The drive from the capital to Porto Alegre takes several hours with stops, as the road is narrow, winding and potholed in the south. Shared taxis run part of the way, but most travellers hire a driver through their lodge or hotel. Avoid driving after dark.

Practical tips

Bring all the cash you need, as there are no reliable ATMs or card machines in the south. Pack repellent, a torch and a dry bag. On turtle beaches, never use white light or flash, and follow the guides' instructions.

A suggested route

On day one, drive south from the capital with stops at Água Izé, Boca do Inferno and a long lunch at São João dos Angolares. On day two, continue to the Pico Cão Grande viewpoints and on to Porto Alegre, spending the afternoon on Praia Piscina or Praia Inhame. On day three, take the boat to Ilhéu das Rolas and stand on the Equator, then return for a night turtle walk at Praia Jalé in season.

Who it suits

The south suits adventurous travellers, nature lovers and anyone who wants empty beaches and a sense of being at the edge of the map. It is less suited to travellers who need reliable electricity, fast internet or quick access to medical care.