Príncipe: a first-timer's guide to the quieter island

Why go

Príncipe feels like the islands as they were a generation ago. There are few cars, very few visitors and long stretches of coast with no one on them. Conservation is taken seriously here: the island's government has committed to sustainable tourism, turtles are protected on its beaches, and fishing communities and lodges work together on marine projects.

Santo António

**Santo António** is one of the smallest capitals in the world, a handful of streets of pastel colonial buildings beside the Papagaio river. Walk past the church, the little market and the main square, stop for a coffee and chat. In August, the **Festa de São Lourenço** brings the **Auto de Floripes**, a street drama of Moors and Christians performed across town by masked players, one of the most remarkable festivals in Africa.

Beaches

**Praia Banana** is the famous one, a crescent of sand and leaning palms that appears on posters across the country. **Praia Bom Bom** is good for snorkelling and kayaking, while wilder beaches such as **Praia Boi** and **Praia Macaco** on the north coast are turtle nesting sites reached by boat or trail. Visit nesting beaches only with guides and follow the rules.

Roças and the eclipse

**Roça Sundy** is where, in May 1919, the British astronomer Arthur Eddington photographed a total solar eclipse that helped confirm Einstein's theory of general relativity. A small memorial and exhibit tell the story, and the restored plantation is now a hotel. **Roça Belo Monte** is a beautifully restored plantation house above Praia Banana, while **Roça Porto Real** is a vast estate slowly being reclaimed by the forest.

Nature and hikes

The south of the island is protected as part of **Obô Natural Park**. Guided hikes climb towards **Pico Papagaio**, and boat trips circle the coast past volcanic pinnacles. Offshore, the **Tinhosas islets** hold huge seabird colonies, and from about July to October humpback whales pass close to the island.

Where to stay

Príncipe has a handful of high-end lodges run on sustainability principles, including Sundy Praia, Roça Sundy and Bom Bom, plus Roça Belo Monte and a few simple guesthouses in Santo António. There are not many rooms on the island, so book well ahead.

Getting there

Small planes fly between São Tomé and Príncipe, with schedules that change and sell out. Book as early as possible and avoid planning a tight connection with your international flight. A boat service runs occasionally but is slow and uncomfortable.

Practical tips

Bring cash for the whole stay, insect repellent and anything specialist you need. Phone signal and internet are limited outside Santo António and the lodges.

A suggested stay

On your first day, settle in and spend the afternoon on Praia Banana or the beach below your lodge. On day two, take a guided forest walk and visit Roça Sundy and the eclipse memorial. On day three, wander Santo António in the morning, then take a boat trip along the coast to see the volcanic pinnacles and, in season, look for whales. Keep a final day free for doing very little, which is what Príncipe does best.

Who it suits

Príncipe suits honeymooners, nature lovers, divers and anyone who wants true quiet. Travellers on a tight budget will find it harder, since flights and lodges cost more than on São Tomé, but a few simple guesthouses make it possible. Families are welcome, though the remoteness means planning ahead for any health needs, and the island's limited flights reward patience.