The central highlands: Monte Café, Bom Sucesso and Obô

Why go

The highlands offer a completely different side of the islands. Temperatures drop, mist drifts through the trees and the forest is full of endemic species: the islands have dozens of bird species found nowhere else, along with unique begonias, orchids and giant trees. Even a single day trip from the capital feels like stepping into another world.

Trindade and Monte Café

**Trindade** is the island's second town, a busy market centre where the road splits for the highlands. A short drive up, **Roça Monte Café** is a working coffee estate with a small museum that tells the story of coffee on the island, from the plantation era to today. You can tour the old drying yards and taste coffee grown on the slopes around you.

Bom Sucesso and Obô Natural Park

Further up the winding road, the **Jardim Botânico do Bom Sucesso** sits at the edge of **Obô Natural Park**, which protects about a third of the island. The garden has orchids, medicinal plants and a small visitor centre where you can arrange official guides. On the way up, stop at **Cascata São Nicolau**, a tall waterfall right beside the road.

From Bom Sucesso, the most popular hike leads to **Lagoa Amélia**, a crater lake now filled with grass and ferns, surrounded by forest. Allow around half a day there and back, with a guide. Birdwatchers look for the São Tomé oriole, the giant sunbird and the dwarf olive ibis.

Climbing Pico de São Tomé

The **Pico de São Tomé** is the highest point on the islands, a demanding climb through dense cloud forest on steep, muddy and often slippery trails. Most people do it in one long day or over two days with a night camping, always with an experienced guide. It is for fit hikers only, and the summit is often in cloud, but the forest itself is the reward.

Roças and village life

The highland roças of **Saudade**, birthplace of the modernist artist Almada Negreiros, **São Nicolau**, **Uba Budo** and **Bombaim** show how plantation communities live today. Some have simple rooms or meals. Visit respectfully: these are homes, not museums.

Where to stay

Options are few and simple: small guesthouses in old roça houses and forest lodges near the trails. Many people stay in the capital and visit on day trips, but sleeping up here lets you start hikes early, before the clouds and rain build.

Practical tips

It rains often in the highlands, even in the drier months, so bring a rain jacket, good boots and a warm layer for the evenings. Hire guides through the park or a reputable operator, carry cash for fees and tips, and tell someone your plans. Leeches and slippery roots are more of a nuisance than a danger.

A suggested day

Start early from the capital and stop at Trindade's market for fruit and snacks. Visit the coffee museum at Monte Café, then continue up the winding road, pausing at the São Nicolau waterfall. Meet your guide at Bom Sucesso, walk the botanical garden, and hike to Lagoa Amélia before the afternoon clouds roll in. Return to the garden for a rest, then drive back down as the light fades, or stay the night in a highland guesthouse.

Who it suits

The highlands suit hikers, birdwatchers, botanists and anyone who wants a break from the heat of the coast. Families with older children enjoy the waterfall and garden, while the Pico climb is best left to experienced, fit walkers.