Savai'i: lava fields, blowholes and village life

Why go

If Upolu is relaxed, Savai'i is even more so. A single road loops around the island through villages of open fale, huge churches and well kept gardens, with the forested volcanic interior rising behind. You will see more pigs than cars on some stretches. It is the place to slow right down, swim in quiet lagoons and see sights that feel raw and real.

Getting there

The ferry runs between Mulifanua wharf, near Faleolo airport on Upolu, and Salelologa on the east coast of Savai'i. The crossing takes roughly an hour and passes Manono and Apolima. Schedules change and Sunday sailings are limited, so check the latest timetable with Samoa Shipping Corporation before you plan. There are also small domestic flights from Fagali'i Airport near Apia when they operate.

What to see

**Saleaula Lava Fields.** Between 1905 and 1911, Mount Matavanu poured lava across the north east coast, burying villages. Today you can walk over the black, ropy rock to the ruins of a church the lava flowed through, and the **Virgin's Grave**, a grave the lava flowed around. Pay the small village fee at the entrance.

**Alofaaga Blowholes.** At Taga on the south coast, waves force seawater up through lava tubes in roaring jets. Local guides throw coconuts into the holes to send them flying. Visit at high tide and stay well back from the edge.

**Afu Aau Waterfall.** Also called Olemoe Falls, this jungle waterfall near Vailoa drops into a deep, cool pool that is one of the best swims on the island.

**Satoalepai turtles.** In a village pool on the north coast, families care for green turtles, and you can swim alongside them for a small fee.

**Mu Pagoa Falls.** At Puleia in the south, a river drops straight off the lava coast into the ocean, a rare sight.

**Falealupo and Cape Mulinu'u.** At the western tip of Samoa, a village owned rainforest preserve protects old trees, and the cape is said to be where spirits leave for the underworld. Check the condition of the canopy walkway before you go.

**Pulemelei Mound.** The largest ancient stone structure in Polynesia hides in the forest of Palauli. Access depends on local landowners, so ask locally.

**Caves.** **Dwarf's Cave** at Paia is a long lava tube you explore with a village guide, and **Peapea Cave** is a roadside tube where swiftlets nest.

Where to stay

Manase, on the north coast, is the classic base, with a long white beach, family beach fales and a resort or two. Nearby Fagamalo has more lagoon side bungalows. Lano and Tuasivi on the east coast are close to the ferry and have chalets over lagoons where turtles feed. The south and west have few places to stay, so most people visit them as day trips.

Getting around

Buses leave from the market at Salelologa and circle the island, but they are slow and infrequent, and almost nothing runs on Sunday. Many fales and resorts arrange island tours and transfers to the ferry, which is the easiest way to see the main sights in one or two days.

Practical tips

Bring enough tala from Upolu: Salelologa has a bank and ATMs, but the rest of the island is mostly cash only with few shops. Village customs are strong on Savai'i, so dress modestly, ask before entering a village or swimming, and respect the evening prayer curfew and Sunday rest.