Manono Island: Samoa's car-free village island

Why go

Manono feels like Samoa with the volume turned down. Without traffic, the sounds are of the sea, roosters, children walking to school and choirs practising in the evening. The island is just a few kilometres around, covered in coconut palms and breadfruit trees, and its people have a strong sense of history: Manono's chiefs were once powerful in Samoan politics.

Getting there

Small open boats run from Manono-uta, on Upolu's west coast close to Mulifanua wharf and the airport, across the lagoon to the island. The ride is short but can be wet and bumpy. There is no fixed timetable: boats leave when there are passengers, or your fale host can arrange a pick up. Avoid crossing in rough weather, and keep valuables in a dry bag.

What to see and do

**The island walk.** A path circles the island along the shore, passing through all four villages. It takes a few hours at an easy pace, with time to stop, chat and swim. Greet people as you pass, walk slowly through villages, and do not walk through during the evening prayer curfew.

**Grave of 99 Stones.** At Lepuia'i, a chief's grave is marked by a stone for each of his wives, according to island legend.

**Pa Tasi star mound.** An ancient star shaped stone mound on the hilltop, linked to traditional pigeon snaring. It is reached by a short, steep path, best with a local guide.

**The lagoon.** Shallow, clear water surrounds Manono, good for an easy snorkel or swim at high tide.

**Apolima.** The tiny neighbouring island sits inside a volcanic crater, with one village and a single narrow entrance from the sea. Visits need permission from the village and are not routine; ask your hosts.

Where to stay

Accommodation on Manono is simple: a handful of family run beach fales with mattresses, mosquito nets, shared bathrooms and home cooked meals included. Do not expect air conditioning, hot water or shops. What you get instead is a sunset over Apolima and a night of almost total quiet.

Village etiquette

Manono's villages are traditional. Dress modestly away from the beach, covering shoulders and knees. Ask before taking photos of people. If a village has a rule about swimming on Sunday or walking through during prayer time, follow it. Pay any custom fee for the walk or the beach to the person who asks.

A sample day on Manono

Catch an early boat from Manono-uta while the lagoon is calm. Start the island walk clockwise, stopping at the Grave of 99 Stones and pausing in each village to watch weaving, fishing nets being mended or a game of kirikiti, Samoa's version of cricket. Swim at high tide around midday, then rest in your fale through the hottest hours. In the late afternoon, climb toward the hilltop with a guide, or simply sit on the sand and watch the sun drop behind Apolima and Savai'i. Dinner is usually fresh fish, taro and palusami cooked by your hosts, followed by the sound of evening hymns drifting across the island.

Practical tips

There are no ATMs or real shops, so bring all the cash, water and snacks you need from Upolu. Pack a torch, insect repellent, reef shoes and a dry bag for the boat. If you are heading to Savai'i next, Manono pairs well with the ferry from Mulifanua.